House and Garden 
Roses and Their Diseases 
Where, When and How to Plant and Prune 
How to Fight their Enemies 
BY W. R. GILBERT 
T O grow roses successfully a rich soil must be provided, such 
as a deep loam of a stiff rather than light nature, although 
the plants, on their own roots, will thrive better in rather light 
soils than will others worked on the common tall briar or on seedling 
briar stocks. Shallow, sandy, or gravelly soils are unsuited for 
roses, and so, on the other hand, are any which are improperly 
drained. In gardens where rose-beds have to be formed in unfavor¬ 
able situations it is best to dig out the natural soil in the first place, 
and replace it with a properly prepared compost. A depth of 
about one and one-half feet should be provided for such strong¬ 
growing kinds as most of the hybrid perpetuals, and a similar depth 
is advised for all roses if it can be provided. The soil can scarcely 
be made too rich; plenty of manure may be added when the ground 
is being prepared for planting, and an annual top dressing, in 
addition, is generally found beneficial, and, indeed, necessary, in 
the production of good flowers. It may be applied with advantage 
soon after growth commences, in spring; the flowering shoots 
are then pushing up, and need plenty of feeding from the roots. 
Respecting situations, there are few in which some representa¬ 
tive of this beautiful genus may not be grown successfully. It is 
not convenient, nor, perhaps, desirable, to attempt the formation 
of a rose garden in all gardens, even when they are extensive; but 
beds of roses may generally be introduced into flower gardens and 
pleasure grounds, and any quantity of plants, so far as circum¬ 
stances and space admit, may be put into other positions without 
any fear being entertained of having too many. For cutting pur¬ 
poses, in private establishments, it is found a good plan to devote 
a portion of the kitchen garden to rose-growing, where the ground 
can be well trenched previous to planting, and enriched with ma¬ 
nure at any time when it is considered necessary. For a rose gar¬ 
den, an open situation is desirable, with a south or southeastern 
aspect, and sheltered from other points, particularly north and east. 
Climbing roses are very beautiful; they may be employed with 
good effect for covering arches, arbors, pillars etc., and also for 
training up trees and tali-growing shrubs. 
Transplanting of all the more hardy roses may best be done 
in October. Tea varieties and any other of a tender nature are 
generally not safe to withstand the winter unprotected, and are 
consequently planted in the spring. Dwarf plants should be 
allowed a space ot from two feet to three feet clear. Sometimes 
both are planted alternately in beds. Roses are better arranged 
by themselves in this way than intermixed with other plants; and 
this remark also applies to the flowers when cut. 
A very important matter in connection with successful rose 
culture, is the combating of the diseases which affect them and 
unless watchfulness is ever observed, success cannot be hoped for. 
The principal diseases that attack roses are, aphis, or green fly, 
mildew, red spider, and white scale, and in dealing with these the 
remedies I here advocate are those which I have found most effec¬ 
tive. Taking them in order the first to consider is aphis or green 
fly. This generally makes its appearance in the early spring, and 
may be held in check by dusting the affected shoots with either 
insecticide or insectibane, syringing, or hosing the same off in two 
or three hours; but where roses are largely grown this is both slow 
and too expensive a process, and I would recommend either of the 
two old remedies—soft soap and tobacco juice or quassia chips 
infusion. Here are the recipes:—Soft soap and tobacco juice 
mixture is made thus. Two pounds of soft soap, and half a pound 
of cheap tobacco; pull the tobacco to pieces, and tie up in a piece of 
calico; place in a saucepan with the soft soap and boil with a little 
water for about twenty minutes; then add water to make in all 
(Continued on page 8, Advertising Section .) 
French Bulldogs 
Their Points and Characteristics 
BY ARTHUR P. BENDER 
HE French bull¬ 
dog was fir st 
seen in this country in 
the eighties and since 
then has taken the eye 
and heart of the public 
in long strides, an 
honor which is his 
due, by reason of his 
affectionate nature, 
reliable disposition 
and general intelli¬ 
gence. 
He is small enough 
to serve as a house 
pet, and his short 
coat gives him the 
advantage over the 
smaller breeds which french bulldog “ pony nick” 
possess the longer hair. Bred by A. P. Bender, Allentown, Pa. 
Though he is active 
and lively he is not boisterous around the house, since he possesses 
a quieter manner than the terrier breeds, and combines the lovable, 
active traits of the Boston terrier and the fox terrier with the sweet¬ 
ness of disposition and the sour face of his sedate cousin the English 
bulldog, which is often considered, on account of his size, too large 
for the house, and is thus often forced to make way for his smaller 
relative among the lovers of the bulldog. 
On account of the scarcity, as well as the many desirable features 
of this breed of dog, a good specimen—which will sometimes bring 
a staggering price—should point up as follows:—An active, 
intelligent dog, smooth coated, compactly built, and of small 
stature: the head large, square and broad, cranium almost flat, 
jaws large, powerful, deep, square and undershot, with good 
turnup and layback, the muscles of the cheeks well developed, the 
face extremely short, broad and very deep. The stop should be 
strongly defined, causing a hollow groove between the eyes and 
extending well up to the forehead. The eyes should be wide 
apart, set low in the skull, as far from the ears as is possible; 
they should be round, dark, of moderate size, neither sunken nor 
bulging. No haw and no white of eye should be visible when 
looking forward. 
Muzzle, nose and lips should be black, lips thick, nose deep and 
nostrils broad; the neck short, thick and well arched. The ears 
should be bat ears, large in size, broad at base, well elongated, 
with rounded tops set high on head but not too close, yet carried 
erect, with orifice plainly visible when seen from the front. 
Mutilated and other than bat ears are disqualifying. The body 
should be short, well rounded, well let down between the shoulders 
and forelegs; chest deep, broad, full, well ribbed, with belly well 
tucked up; back short, strong and roached broad at shoulders and 
narrowing at the loins. The forelegs should be short, stout, 
straight and muscular, set wide apart; hind legs longer than fore¬ 
legs, so as to elevate the loins above the shoulders, free and com¬ 
pact and firmly set, turning slightly outward; toes compact with 
high knuckles and short nails. The tail should be either straight 
or screwed (but not curly), short, hung low, thick at root and fine 
tip carried low in repose. Color should be uniform, preference 
given to dark brindle, dark brindle and white; all other brindles 
and all other colors. The skin should be soft and loose, espe¬ 
cially at head, forming wrinkles; the coat moderately fine and 
smooth. 
64 
