The large-flowered varieties are rather more difficult of outdoor culture than the Pompon sorts, being less hardy 
How to Grow Chrysanthemums 
PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS TELLING HOW THE AMATEUR MAY SECURE ALL THE 
PLANTS DESIRED FROM A FEW STOCK PLANTS CARRIED THROUGH THE WINTER 
by E.U. Good 
I T is an easy thing to grow chrysanthemums and anyone 
that tries it will be more or less successful. That may 
seem like a wild statement, but it really keeps very close to the 
truth so far as growing these plants for ordinary use is concerned. 
Of course this does not apply to the exhibition plants that so 
delight us at the shows. To get up such as these requires expert 
care and knowledge and proper greenhouse conditions to handle 
them. 
If a person will take the plants that they have in their windows 
in the fall and keep them through the winter, these same plants 
will furnish a stock of cuttings the next spring. When the plant 
has flowered and the leaves are withering you will notice that 
close to the pot at the bottom of the stalk of the plant a new growth 
will spring up, and this new growth will furnish the stock for next 
year. 
If you have not saved a stock it would be well to go to some 
greenhouse and get some cuttings, which will not cost much 
Or, buy the young plants in very small pots. All greenhouses 
will furnish these. You can start your cuttings from the first 
of the year right up to the last of April. 
The cuttings will start readily in sand—a coarse, clean, masons’ 
sand. The very fine white sand will not answer nearly so well, 
as it packs down too hard and rots the cuttings. A good prop¬ 
agating bed can be made from a wooden box. L et the box be 
about six inches deep and in the bottom bore some holes for 
drainage. Put in the bottom three inches of sand. 
Firm the sand, after wetting it. Then put in the cuttings. 
To do this take a pointed stick, make a hole with it in the sand, 
insert the cutting then, press the sand about it. Over this box 
put a covering of glass. This cover is to be raised and lowered 
to keep the temperature even. About 55 degrees will be right. 
Make the cuttings about three inches long, cutting at an eye, and 
remove the lower leaves. Put the stem about an inch deep in the 
sand. During the heat of the day be sure to raise the glass and 
to shade the box with a paper. If left to the full glare of the sun 
the little cuttings will not last long. 11 will take about three weeks 
to root the cuttings. 
When the little plants are ready for shifting from the bed they 
should be put into small pots, or they may be grown in boxes. 
For ordinary use it would be better to use the pots. After potting 
put them up to the light. 
When you pot your plants be sure that you have good drainage 
in the bottom of the pots or boxes. No matter how small the 
pot, it is better to put something in the bottom that will let the 
water run through and not collect it and sour the soil. The 
condition of the soil also is important. Clayey, sandy, hard soil 
will not answer, and the plants will not do well in it. You want 
a soil that is spongy, composed of leaf mold, loam and old cow 
manure. These mixed well together will be suitable. When 
potting always leave sufficient room to hold the water on the 
top of the loam when watering. This will let the water soak 
to the bottom of the pot, whereas if the loam is flush with the top 
the chances are that no water will reach the drainage. 
Your plants will require shifting from time to time, so, to 
judge the need of repotting, just knock a plant out of the pot and 
look at the roots. If the plants are allowed to remain until they 
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