HOUSE AND GARDEN 
392 
May, 1911 
Fierce 
Boilers and Radiators 
Have you forgotten 
how cold you were 
all last winter? 
PIERCE MARK 
Send for our Primer. 
It’s a guide to a warm 
home. IPs free. 
Are you going to let the 
summer weather make you 
think you can go through 
another winter with a house 
heated only at certain times 
and only in certain spots? 
Do you know how sim¬ 
ple a matter it is to get 
adequate, healthful, eco¬ 
nomical heat all over the 
house in any weather? 
It is not a technical descrip¬ 
tion of any kind of boiler or 
any system. It tells about all 
kinds of heat. It explains the 
shortcomings of hot air, tells 
how steam heats and how 
hot water heats and the dif¬ 
ference between the two. It 
shows the way to get enough 
heat, clean and healthful 
heat and heat at a low cost. 
The heat for your house — 
the house you have or the 
one you are going to build 
— is steam or hot water. 
The installation of either is 
up to your steam-fitter. 
The selection of the boiler 
and the radiators — both 
vital to successful heating- 
should certainly not be left 
entirely to others. 
a' 
tqt 1 
It discusses Pierce Boilers 
and Radiators because any 
book on successful heating 
must include successful 
boilers and radiators. Send 
for the Primer today and 
read it, then you will be 
equipped to co-operate 
with your steam-fitter or 
architect in getting a per¬ 
fectly heated house. 
Pierce, Butler & Pierce Mfg. Co., 242 James St., Syracuse, N. Y. Showrooms in principal cities 
Over 200,000 Pierce Boilers and over 1,000,000 square feet of Pierce 
Radiators have been in successful operation during the past 35 years 
A CRIMSON RHODODENDRON 
Some years ago we purchased from Europe a large stock of this beautiful Rhododendron which, 
for general purposes, has proven its superiority over a number of other crimson varieties. It is a 
vigorous grower, profuse bloomer and thoroughly hardy, having successfully withstood a tempera¬ 
ture of ten degrees below zero. We offer bushy specimens, well budded, which will produce a mass 
of crimson blooms this season. 
Price for specimens 2^x2^ feet: 
$3.50 each, 4 for $12. 
COTTAGE GARDENS CO., Inc. Nurseries: QUEENS, NEW YORK 
Place your orders now and we will make shipment 
to suit your convenience during May and June. 
(Continued from page 390) 
not cost as much as a modern, heavy piece. 
Recently a beautiful pair of cut glass bon¬ 
bon dishes were marked $28; $50 would 
have been reasonable for them. Generally 
such pieces as are illustrated here would 
fetch from $15 to $20, and occasionally, 
beautifully cut pieces can be purchased for 
$25. One pair of late eighteenth century 
cruets were marked recently at $4.50 each ; 
tumblers of the early nineteenth century 
may sometimes be found for $2. 
Mary H. Northend. 
Making a Rose Garden 
(Continued from page 335) 
country. In Dr. Huey’s experience, roses 
that are budded on these stocks will thrive 
much more luxuriantly and give much bet¬ 
ter blooms than those which depend upon 
their own root systems. It is necessary, 
however, to set the point where the shoot 
is budded to the stock about two inches 
beneath the surface; otherwise there is 
the constant danger that suckers will 
spring from the root and, if overlooked 
for a time, these will kill the more desir¬ 
able shoots. 
A word of warning might profitably he 
uttered against the cheap roses budded on 
“Multiflora,” grown in Holland and sold 
in some of the department stores. They 
are short-lived and very poor in compari¬ 
son with plants on brier and Mannetti. 
Multiflora has been entirely discarded as 
a stock by English and Irish growers. 
Roses on their own roots have the ad¬ 
vantage of being cheaper—one-year-old 
plants costing a dollar for six to a dozen ; 
two-year and three-year-old bushes which 
are, of course, far more desirable, cost 
more in proportion. 
Now as to the preparation of the rose 1 
bed itself. First of all dig the soil out to 
a depth of two feet at least, keeping the 
top soil and sods and the sub-soil in sep¬ 
arate piles as they are taken out. Loosen up 
the floor of the trench with a pick and on 
this, if the ground needs draining, put a 
layer of stones, cinders and other material 
that will not decompose. On top of this 
place the best of the sub-soil mixed with 
a generous dressing of well-rotted manure. 
Finally add the sod, well broken up and 
the top soil, also enriched with manure. 
Then fill in the bed with enough good top 
soil, unmanured, to bring it two or three 
inches above the adjoining surface. Make 
sure that the surface of the bed, after it 
has settled, will be about one inch below 
that of the adjoining sod in order to re¬ 
tain the moisture from rain. This prepar¬ 
ation of the bed should be done, at least 
several weeks in advance of planting time. 
In composing the soil for the rose bed, 
it is well to remember that the Hybrid.Per - 
petuals require a heavy soil containing 
some clay. For Teas and Hybrid Teas a 
lighter, warmer soil is better. The top soil 
from an old pasture, taken with, the grass 
roots and chopped very fine, will do ex¬ 
cellently for the Hybrid Perpetuals. Mix 
(Continued on page 394) 
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