A Vegetable Garden That Will Survive the Fall Frosts 
WHY NOT SOW A PATCH THAT WILL MAKE THE GARDEN AS PROFIT¬ 
ABLE AND ATTRACTIVE IN THE FALL AS IT IS IN THE SUMMER? 
F the amateur gardener wants a 
vegetable patch that will be 
fresh and flourishing long after 
his neighbor’s garden is a desolate 
heap, he must sow the frost-defy¬ 
ing kinds. The right sorts, sowed 
at the right time, will give him a 
garden that will be a thing of 
beauty after tender vegetables have 
passed their usefulness and become 
an eyesore. More than a dozen 
hardy vegetables may be selected, 
with the certainty of having a frost¬ 
proof vegetable garden. 
Beets, sowed in June, will be in 
good shape to pull, for winter 
storing, soon after the first frost. 
The conditions demanded by all root crops 
will meet the requirements of beets; such 
as fresh loose soil that is clean and light, 
with well rotted manure that has passed 
the fermenting stage, or a potash fertilizer. 
Long before frost this June planting will be yielding greens and 
tender young roots. In order to preserve the appearance of the 
row right up to the end of the season, it is a good plan to thin 
gradually, beginning when the plants are three inches high, to an 
inch apart, and continuing to two, four, and eight inches, as they 
become larger. These gradual thinnings will give many a good 
“mess’’ of greens and sweet young beets that would otherwise be 
wasted, if removed in a wholesale thinning that is done once for all. 
Carrots, both young and mature roots, should have a place in 
the frost-proof garden. For a crop that will reach full size and 
be suitable to store for winter, sowings should be made in June, 
but for young roots, for table use, July sowings, or even an 
Here is a single plant of parsley, pulled a week after a 
killing frost 
BY I. M. Angell 
seedlings. 
from an earlier planting of vegetables will answer, 
The garden that bore in abundance after frost had killed the tender vegetables. The picture was taken 
four days after a severe frost 
August ist sowing, will give satis¬ 
factory returns, although August 
would be late to risk it if the season 
proved to be unfavorable. For a sup¬ 
ply of carrots throughout the season, 
to be pulled while still small, for 
their sweet and tender qualities, there 
is no better variety than Early Scar¬ 
let Horn. Warm, friable soil and the 
same general conditions as are re¬ 
quired by beets will give good results. 
Dry weather is a drawback. 
Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts and 
Kohlrabi are all related and need 
similar treatment. Sown purposely 
for the frost-resisting patch, seed 
may be put in about the middle of 
June. As conditions are not so favorable at 
this season as during the spring months, it 
will pay to be a little more free with the 
seed, to allow for the loss of some of the 
Soil that still retains richness 
or if there is 
any doubt about sufficient richness, well decayed manure should 
be used. The soil must be kept loose, and wood ashes sprinkled as 
a precaution against the attacks of insects. At the end of July the 
young plants ought to be ready to set in their permanent place, 
in moist earth, with the soil pressed around the stems. Short 
stocky plants will produce better results than spindling ones. 
Kohlrabi is sometimes sown in hills, a few inches apart, a small 
pinch of seed to each hill, and all but the best plant pulled out when 
they reach a suitable size. Kohlrabi is often gathered too large 
and so fails to be appreciated at its real worth. Bulbs two or 
three inches in diameter are very sweet and tender, a great im¬ 
provement on larger roots that 
have been allowed to become 
tough and fibrous. This vegeta¬ 
ble is one of the old reliables, as 
it will stand both frost and dry 
weather. There need be no hesi¬ 
tation in adding Brussels sprouts 
to the cold weather garden, as 
frost improves the flavor. Tune- 
sown seed will produce plants 
that will be in bearing in No¬ 
vember. 
Chives, Onions and Leeks 
are relatives and all useful for 
the frost-defying gardens, as they 
are among the hardiest. An 
early September sowing of ball 
onions may be made, for the pur¬ 
pose of wintering over ; they will 
start into growth again in the 
spring. To ensure success the 
patch must be well drained and 
no weeds should be allowed to 
get ahead of the onions. The 
best seed, thickly sowed, and 
thinned out, will pay in the end. 
The soil should be old and mel¬ 
low, well enriched with cow ma- 
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