HOUSE AND GARDEN 
June, 1911 
457 
fested is to help them through by giving a 
dressing of nitrate of soda, guano or other 
quick-acting fertilizer, and high piling 
with moist earth, thus giving a new stimu¬ 
lation and encouraging the formation of 
new roots. While this does not in any 
way cure the disease, it helps the crop to 
withstand its attack. When planning 
where to put cabbages or similar crops 
next year, be sure to use a system of rota¬ 
tion and to set plants grown in clean soil. 
Cucumber-Beetle. Often the little cu¬ 
cumbers barely get above ground when 
the small black-and-yellow-striped cucum¬ 
ber-beetle attacks them. At other times he 
does not appear until after they are well 
advanced and apparently beyond injury. 
That is the time to beware! There will be 
a swarm of beetles and seriously injured 
vines before you realize what the matter 
is. The easiest and surest way to fight this 
fellow is to keep him away from your 
plants altogether by means of a screened 
box. If the beetles are in evidence when 
the vines get so large as to make it neces¬ 
sary to remove the boxes, keep them 
sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. Plaster, 
or fine ashes, kept sifted on the leaves, is 
also used, but this protects only the tops 
of the leaves. 
Cucumber-Wilt. This condition of the 
vines often accompanies the presence of 
the cucumber-beetles, and formerly was 
supposed to be the direct effect of their 
work. It is now supposed to be a disease, 
spread by the striped-beetle. The only 
remedy is to get rid of the beetles as quick¬ 
ly and thoroughly as possible and to col¬ 
lect and burn every wilted leaf or plant. 
Cucumber-Blight. This is a mildew 
which attacks both cucumbers and melons, 
the leaves turning yellow, dying in spots 
and finally drying up altogether. Upon 
the first appearance of the mildew, or 
where there is reason to fear an attack, 
spray with Bordeaux every ten days. 
Cutworm. No garden pest is more ex¬ 
asperating than the fat, brown, clutnsy- 
looking cutworm. He works at night, at¬ 
tacks the strongest, healthiest plants and 
cuts them off near the ground, very rarely 
eating or carrying away any of the severed 
leaves or fruit—although occasionally I 
have found such bits, especially small 
onion tops, dragged off and sometimes 
buried in the soil. In small gardens the 
most effective remedy is hand-picking. As 
the worms work at night, they are readily 
found by lantern light or very early in the 
morning. In the daytime, by digging about 
in the soil at the roots of an injured plant, 
a careful search will almost invariably re¬ 
veal the culprit. In connection with hand¬ 
picking, where there is reason to fear the 
cutworm’s attacks, it is decidedly advisable 
to use a poisoned bait. This is made by 
mixing wheat bran with water into a mash, 
adding to the water before mixing, Paris 
green (powder) or arsenate of lead. This 
supper is distributed toward nightfall in 
small amounts—about a teaspoonful to a 
place—along the rows or near each plant, 
just as they are coming up, or after setting 
out. Another method, sometimes used 
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