March 29, 1913 
FOREST AND STREAM 
395 
3'ou look upon the glacier itself, the object of 
the climb; having stopped at Sperry Camp for 
a noontide meal. The guide will tell you that 
you are 9,000 feet above sea level, and as you 
look down, you can well agree with him. You 
seem to be in another world. There comes into 
you that overwhelming sense of awe as you view 
the crouching rocks, the writhing waters and the 
horrible suggestiveness of it all. Flung out on 
all sides are the beauties found at the top of 
the world, and your eyes sweep them all in with 
a reveling sense of defiance. And then down 
again to camp at the close of the second day. 
The climb to the heights above Gunsight Pass 
fully occupies the next day, and here one is able 
to witness all the gigantic conformations of 
nature, dating back to the beginning of things. 
A famous spot, indeed, is Gunsight Pass, the 
top of the continental divide, and a treasure land 
of primitive magnificence, bearing always the 
suggestion of the awful and almost inconceiv¬ 
able—seemingly impossible of human tongue in 
telling of—to be left in the sacredness of utter 
silence. It is a momentous trip, one always to 
be remembered. So also the trip to Red Eagle 
Lake, and here lies the path to the fisherman’s 
home at the foot of Red Eagle Falls. To know 
that the trout every year climb the rivers to 
these lakes, high in the mountains, is one of the 
wonders and mysteries of. nature, yet they do 
it, as impossible as it would seem. But they 
always court failure when they attempt to scale 
Red Eagle Falls, and there they lie, by the thou¬ 
sands attempting to make it, but knowing the 
sense of incapacity after a few tries. Hence is 
the trout fisherman wreathed around in glory 
as he whips in his flies and pulls in trout after 
trout, four and five pounds in weight. Once a 
trout fisherman gets to Red Eagle Lake and 
vicinity, he stays there, for the fishing is in¬ 
comparable. 
The above are but few of the attractive 
points. When one stops for a moment to think 
that there are hundreds of ridges, peaks and 
heights all thrown together in one amazing 
puzzle, many of which are unnamed, the signfi- 
cance of it all will come to one. It is a region 
which is, and always will be, a spot where one 
might view nature in the supreme; where civili¬ 
zation dares not intrude, and if it does, retires 
with a whisper of awe and a gathering up of 
its perfumed garments. It is a place where the 
boot and the felt hat are king, where man is 
man, and where the millionaire rubs elbows with 
his less fortunate brother. The region is tapped 
by the Great Northern Railroad, the western 
gateway being Belton and the eastern gateway 
Midvale, where the railroad is spending one 
hundred thousand dollars in the erection of a 
new hotel. Great sums of money are also being 
spent in building hotel colonies, consisting of 
from four to ten handsome log chalets of the 
Swiss style of architecture, in seven of the 
most beautiful and convenient locations through¬ 
out the park. These colonies are from seven to 
twenty miles apart, and a tour through the park 
can be made in comfort and ease by short stages 
between these colonies. These chalets are the 
acme of perfection, and a credit indeed. The 
cost of the hotel expenses of going through the 
park on a long or short tour can well be covered 
by three dollars a day. A tour of ten days by 
a party of five can be made at an expense of 
about five dollars to eight dollars per capita per 
day, and if one wishes to travel by foot, carry¬ 
ing his own camping paraphernalia, the expense 
can be cut down to from one dollar to three 
dollars a day. 
The following tabulated list of charges for 
the tourist will indicate the reasonable cost of 
the tour through the Glacier National Park: 
Round-trip fare, St. Paul or Minneapolis, to Belton 
and Midvale, Mont., the official entrances to the 
Park, June 1 to Sept. 30.$35.00 
Great Northern Chalets at 
Midvale . 
Two Medicine Lake. 
Cutbank Canon . 
St. Mary’s Lake. Meals, 75 cents. 
The Narrows, St. Mary’s Lake /-Lodging, 75 cents. 
Lake McDermott . Per day . 3.00 
Gunsight Lake . 
.Sperry Glacier . 
Belton. 
National Park Cabin Resort, lower end Lake 
McDonald. Rates, per day.$2.00 to $3.00 
Geduhn’s, north shore Lake McDonald. Rates 
per day . 2.00 
Glacier Hotel, north shore Lake McDonald. Ac¬ 
commodates 150 guests. Rates, per day. 3.00 
Stage ride, Belton to foot of Lake McDonald, one way .50 
Boat trip to head of Lake McDonald, one way.75 
Round trip . 1-25 
Guides, in charge of party, per day. 3.50 
Cook, per day . 3.00 
Saddle and pack horses, 5 days or less, per day. 2.00 
Saddle and pack horses, more than 5 days, per day.. 1.50 
[the end.] 
Among the Mexican Troglodytes 
By EDWARD HOEFLICH 
O N the way from the Roncesvalles mining 
district, in the State of Chihuahua, 
Mexico, where I inspected several mines, 
I fell in with Don Pedro Alvarado, the noted 
peon mining millionaire. Don Pedro was, at 
that time, owner of the famous Palmilla mine, 
out of which his father and he took millions 
on millions of pesos. He had very little educa¬ 
tion, and his hobby was to fill his pockets with 
brand new silver dollars, w’alk down the streets 
of Parral, and distribute the coins to the poor. 
It is told of Don Pedro that, in him, salesmen 
in general had a good field for their wares. 
Once upon a time a jewelry salesman succeeded 
in selling him twelve watches. Immediately fol¬ 
lowing this salesman, came a piano agent, say¬ 
ing, “Don Pedro, you bought twelve watches 
from this man. -why not buy twelve pianos from 
me?” Don Pedro bought the pianos, placing 
one in each room of his magnificent million- 
dollar residence in Parral. He also paid forty 
thousand pesos for a Brussels carpet, which is 
always covered with canvas, so that his many 
children would not soil it with the beans they 
were accustomed tO' eat on the floor. 
Before our trip was over, Don Pedro in¬ 
vited me to take dinner with him at his house. 
I readily accepted, as I w’as anxious to get ac¬ 
quainted W'ith him, and to see the art treasures 
he was supposed to possess. During the repast 
Illustrated from Photographs taken by the Author 
AUTHOR AND HIS DOG ROLF. 
On Brink of El Cobre Barranca. 
he spoke very interestingly of his trips to the 
interior, and also mentioned the peculiar cus¬ 
toms of the Tarahumares, a tribe of In¬ 
dians, which used to live between the twenty- 
sixth and thirtieth parallels, in the State of 
Chihuahua. Now, the remnants of this once- 
powerful tribe are to be found only in the south¬ 
western part of the State. It had been my de¬ 
sire for many years to get acquainted with this 
peculiar race, and I considered seriously the 
spending of several weeks in study and pleasure 
among its members. Don Juan Alvarez, the 
owner of silver mines near Batopilas, who was 
present at this dinner, invited me to accompany 
him to that place, as it would be the most suit¬ 
able one from which to start my investigation, 
with the aid of experienced guides. Being free 
for the next few weeks, I made preparations 
immediately, and started two days afterward 
with Don Juan, a guide, Pedro Sandoval, and my 
faithful dog, Rolf, from Paral, taking the trail 
for the Batopilas mining camp. 
This camp has been known since the seven¬ 
teenth century, but came into prominence when 
Boss Shepherd of Washington denounced the 
mines, and made a paying proposition out of 
them. It still belongs to the family, and A. R. 
Shepherd is in charge. Here we outfitted for 
a long trip, and engaged a few Tarahumare 
runners as porters, for our expedition. Before 
