HOUSE AND GARDEN 
I 12 
August, 1910 
Propagation by Cuttings 
C UTTINGS are very much like layers, 
but differ from them in that they are 
separated from the parent plant before 
any roots are formed, and the whole pro¬ 
cess of root formation has therefore to be 
carried on independently. For this reason 
that are not so simple an undertaking for 
the beginner as layers; the latter can and, 
indeed, must be left alone, while cuttings 
require care and must, under some circum¬ 
stances, be watched very closely. 
They may he made from both ripened 
and green wood and they may be taken 
from the root, stem or leaf of the plant. 
They are designated accordingly as hard 
or ripe and green ; and as cuttings — mean¬ 
ing sections of the stem, root cuttings and 
leaf cuttings. 
Green cuttings are made sometimes 
from the soft wood—that is, the succulent 
and tender, most recent growth; or from 
the hardened growing wood — that is, the 
growth that is hard, but not yet fully 
ripened or turned into actual wood fibre. 
Ripe cuttings are made from the fully 
matured and ripened wood. 
The best authorities agree that hard¬ 
wood or ripe cuttings will practically al¬ 
ways root, though it takes longer and they 
are not always the finest plants when they 
finally “take hold” and grow ; but cuttings 
of green or soft wood are a doubtful un¬ 
dertaking and are very apt to die before 
they have had a chance to root—therefore 
they are likely to be a very discouraging 
failure to the beginner. 
Geraniums are the one great old stand¬ 
by that everyone has at one time or an¬ 
other rooted or seen rooted from “slips,” 
and geraniums may be depended upon to 
live and thrive ninety-nine times out of a 
hundred. Commonly they are rooted by 
being - thrust into a bottle of water, but the 
professional way is to use a coarse sand 
in fiats to set them into. This is men¬ 
tioned as the most familiar example to il¬ 
lustrate propagation by this method, rather 
than because directions seem necessary for 
increasing the number of geraniums in the 
world. 
The practical value of cuttings lies in 
the possibility which they offer of turning 
one currant bush into a dozen in a single 
season, or making twenty grape vines 
grow where only one grew before, with 
absolutely no outlay. Ornamental shrubs 
and perennials may, of course, be multi¬ 
plied in this way, though the latter are 
usually increased in a simpler way by 
division of the root clumps every two or 
three years. 
WHEN TO TAKE CUTTINGS 
Cuttings of hard wood may be taken at 
any time when the plants are dormant, 
though it is usual to prepare them after 
the leaves fall in the autumn and let them 
lie through the winter to callus. This cal¬ 
lus is very necessary, and unless it forms 
no roots will appear. It is occasioned by 
the swelling of the inner bark at the 
severed end or base of the cutting; this 
gradually rolls out and over the entire raw 
surface, covering it with new tissue in 
practically the same way that the wound 
left on a tree, by pruning off a branch, is 
covered. Usually this process takes from 
two to three months, and cuttings are 
sometimes prepared thus, long before they 
are to be set into the ground. On the 
other hand, they may he taken from the 
parent plant in the fall and set immediate¬ 
ly out of doors, unless the climate is ex¬ 
ceptionally severe. 
Ripe cuttings should be 6 to 8 inches 
long and should contain never less than 
two buds or two pairs of buds—and there 
is no harm in having a dozen. The cut at 
the bottom does not have to be made im¬ 
mediately below a bud, though it is well 
to have it come at such a spot. It should 
slant in order to furnish as broad a diame¬ 
ter as possible for the sending forth of 
roots. Rub off all except the upper bud 
or pair of buds and plant with a dibble 
just as a seedling is planted. Never thrust 
a cutting into the sand simply because it 
is easy to do so — they should lie set care¬ 
fully and treated quite the same as a 
rooted plant in this respect. Place them 
two inches apart and set them deep into 
the ground so that only the remaining 
upper bud or pair is just above the sur¬ 
face. Firm them by tramping and mulch 
them heavily before cold weather sets in. 
STARTING PLANTS INDOORS 
Ordinarily attempts to start cuttings in 
flats indoors in winter are not advisable 
for the beginner. It is extremely difficult 
to make a success of these without a place 
especially prepared — and failure is such 
an ardor cooler that it is well not to in¬ 
vite it by rash experimenting. During 
the summer, however, when temperature 
takes care of itself, there is less risk — so 
there will be no harm in explaining the 
method of going about this indoor propa¬ 
gation, while we are on the subject. 
Flat boxes, four inches deep — the regu¬ 
lation “flats,” such as are used for starting 
seed indoors—are suitable for cuttings in¬ 
doors, or under glass, as it is termed; but 
instead of the fine, rich earth which seeds 
require, they must be filled with clean, 
sharp, well packed sand. For a cutting 
has no need of organic nourishment until 
it is provided with roots to take up this 
nourishment, and any enriching of the soil 
is likely to result in death to it; it will rot 
at the base and be destroyed by what, 
under other circumstances of growth, is 
its food. 
Bore holes six inches apart in the bot¬ 
tom of the flat for drainage; over these 
lay pieces of broken pots or clam shells to 
keep the sand from sifting through, then 
cover with a layer of sphagnum moss or 
excelsior to aid in retaining moisture. 
Onto this spread the sand, up even with 
the top of the box; water freely to firm 
it and it is ready for the cuttings to take 
up their residence. 
Hardened cuttings — that is cuttings of 
growing wood which is old enough to be 
hard without being actually turned to 
wood fibre — of spireas, lilacs, hydrangeas 
and a good many other shrubs which there 
is not space to name individually here, 
may be taken in late July or early August 
and rooted indoors in such flats before 
cold weather usually. They are more like¬ 
ly to live and thrive, however, if they are 
carried over the winter indoors than if set 
outside as soon as rooted. 
It is most important to remember that 
all cuttings must be protected from strong 
sunlight when kept under glass—indeed, 
they must be shaded completely for a few 
days after setting; and the sand in the 
boxes must be kept constantly saturated 
with moisture. They need ventilation and 
pure air, too, but must be protected from 
wind and cool air. 
CARRYING CUTTINGS THROUGH THE WINTER 
Cuttings that are to lay over for the 
winter to callus are tied in a bundle with 
tarred string — “varmints” hate the tar and 
will avoid it — and buried a foot and a half 
deep, upside down, in a sandy, thoroughly 
drained and protected place outdoors— 
and then well mulched; or they may be 
buried in moist sand or moss in a cool cel¬ 
lar. When spring comes they are planted 
outdoors, just as directed above for those 
which are planted immediately after cut¬ 
ting, or indoors in the flat in sand. In 
either case they are ready to go into their 
(Continued on page 123.) 
To prepare the cutting for planting, take off 
the lower leaves and buds, cut off the stem 
just below this point, pick out the top and 
trim the leaves. 
