HOUSE AND GARDEN 
August, 1910 
From light wood a frame was made to 
fit the opening in the second floor and 
given an oak stain to match the trim of 
the hall. Over this was stretched a cover 
of bronze-green burlap which blended 
well with the paper, secured with tacks 
of hammered brass. This was fastened 
to the wall with hinges. 
When lowered like a trap-door, it en¬ 
tirely separated the upper from the lower 
floor. When raised against the wall, it 
was not at all clumsy or ugly in appear¬ 
ance. 
The door proved convenient, also, when 
the fireplace was depended upon for heat, 
as it prevented the warm air from rising 
to the upper hall where it was not re¬ 
quired. 
Even if such a door were not required 
for constant use, it would prove a great 
convenience for many occasions, and could 
be easily and quickly fastened in place, 
removing the objection that prevents 
many people from following the pleasing 
fashion of having the open stairway lead 
up from the living-room. Such a device 
would not, of course, serve in case the 
stairs enclose an open well between the 
floors. Alice M. Ashton. 
Everyman’s Greenhouse 
(Continued from page 93) 
error when half the glass is laid. Use 
“finishing” nails for securing the sash 
bars in place, as they are easily split. 
Next, with chalk line mark the middle of 
the roof sash bars, and secure to them 
the one-inch pipe purlin, which will then 
be ready to fasten to the uprights already 
in place. Next, make concrete by mixing 
two parts Portland cement, two of sand 
and four of gravel or crushed stone with 
sufficient water to make a mixture that 
will pour like thick mud, and put the iron 
pipe posts in their permanent positions, 
seeing that the purlin is level and the 
posts upright. (If necessary, the purlin 
can be weighted down until the concrete 
sets.) Then put into place the ventila¬ 
tors, glazed, and the headers for same— 
short pieces of wood, cut to go in between 
the sash bars, and fit these up snugly 
against the lower edge of the ventilator 
sash. 
When laying the glass in the roof, 
which will now be ready, use plenty of 
putty, worked sufficiently soft for the 
glass to be thoroughly “bedded” in it, and 
leaving no air-spaces or crevices for the 
rain to leak through later. If this work 
is carefully done, it will not be necessary 
to putty again on the outside of the glass, 
but it should be gone over with white 
lead and linseed oil. Be sure to place the 
convex surface of every light up. The 
panes should be lapped from 1/6 to 1/4 
of an inch, and held securely in place with 
greenhouse glazing points, the double- 
pointed bent ones being generally used. 
The lights for the ends of the house may 
be “butted,” that is, placed edge to edge, 
if you happen to strike good edges, but 
The Owner of this Attractive House 
Enjoys His Windows 
They’re all casements hinged to swing 
out— tight in winter and catching all the 
breezes in summer. 
They’re equipped with our famous Hold¬ 
fast Adjusters to operate and lock easily 
with one hand without disturbing screens, 
storm sash, curtains or Venetian blinds. 
Our free hand-book tells you all about 
up-to-date casements and our remarkable 
casement devices. 
Write to-day to the 
CASEMENT HARDWARE COMPANY 
154 Washington Street Chicago 
In writing to advertisers please mention House and Garden. 
