168 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
September, ioio 
been gathered in the green state should be picked, as soon as dry 
(as wet weather is likely to mould or sprout them), and stored 
in a dry place, or spread on a bench in the sun. They will keep 
either shelled, or in the dry pods for winter. 
Beets: In October, before the first hard frosts, take up and 
store in a cool cellar, in clean, perfectly dry sand, or in pits out¬ 
side (see cabbage) ; do not cut off the long top roots, nor the 
tops close enough to cause any “bleeding.” 
Brussels Sprouts: These are improved by freezing, and may 
be used from the open garden until December. If wanted later, 
store them with cabbage, or hang up the stalks in bunches in a 
cold cellar. 
Cabbage: If only a few heads are to be stored, a cool cellar will 
do. Even if where they will be slightly frozen, they will not be 
injured, so long as they do 
not freeze and thaw repeat¬ 
edly. They should not be 
taken in until there is danger 
of severe freezing, as they 
will keep better, and a little 
frost improves the flavor. 
For storing small quantities 
outdoors, dig a trench, a foot 
or so deep, in a well drained 
spot, wide enough to admit 
two heads side by side. Pull 
up the cabbages, without re¬ 
moving either stems or outer 
leaves, and store side by side 
head down, in the bottom of 
the trench. Now cover over 
lightly with straw, meadow 
hay, or any refuse which will 
keep the dirt from freezing 
to the cabbages, and then cov¬ 
er over the whole with earth, 
to the depth of several inches, 
but allowing the top of the 
roots to remain exposed, 
which will facilitate digging 
them up as required. Do not 
bury the cabbage until as late 
as possible before severe 
freezing, as a spell of warm 
weather would rot it. 
Carrots: Treat in the same 
way as beets. They will not 
be hurt by a slight freezing 
of the tops, before being dug, 
but care must be taken not to let the roots become touched by 
frost. 
Celery : That which is to be used in early fall has already been 
“blanched” outside, by banking, and as celery will stand a little 
freezing, will be used directly from the garden. For the portion 
to be kept over winter, provide boxes about a foot wide, and 
nearly as deep as the celery is high. Cover the bottom of these 
boxes with two or three inches of sand, and wet thoroughly. 
Upon this stand the celery upright, and packed close together. 
In taking up the celery for storing in this way, the roots are 
kept on, not cut, as it is bought in the stores. This celery will 
be ready for use after Christmas. If a long succession is 
wanted, store from the open two or three different times, say at 
the end of October, first part of November and the latter part 
•of November. 
Cucumbers, Melons, Egg-plant: While there is no way of 
storing these for any great length of time without recourse to 
artificial cold, they may be had for some time by storing just 
before the first frosts in a cool, dark cellar, care being taken in 
handling the fruits to give them no bruises. 
Onions: If the onions got a good early start in the spring, the 
tops will begin to “die down” by the middle of August. As soon 
as the tops have turned yellow and withered, they should be 
pulled, on the first clear dry day, and laid in windows (three or 
four rows in one), but not heaped up. They should be turned 
over frequently, by hand or with a wooden rake, and removed 
to a shed or barn floor as soon as dry, where the tops can be 
cut off. Keep them spread out as much as possible, and give 
them open ventilation until danger of frost. Then store in a 
dry place and keep as cool as possible without freezing. A few 
barrels, with holes knocked in the sides, will do well for a small 
quantity. 
Parsley: Take up a few 
plants and keep in a flower¬ 
pot or small box, in the kitch¬ 
en or living-room window. 
Parsnips : These will stay in 
the ground without injury all 
winter, but part of the crop 
may be taken up late in the 
fall and stored with beets, 
carrots and turnips, to use 
while the ground is frozen. 
Potatoes : When the vines 
have died down and the skin 
of the new potatoes has be¬ 
come somewhat hardened, 
they can be dug and stored 
in a cool, dry cellar at once. 
Be sure to give plenty of ven¬ 
tilation until danger of frost. 
Keep from the light, as this 
has the effect of making the 
potatoes bitter. If there is 
any sign of “rot” among the 
tubers, do not dig them up 
until it has stopped. 
Squash and Pumkins : The 
proper conditions for storing 
for winter will be indicated 
by the drying and shrinking 
of the stem. Cut them from 
the vines, being careful never 
to break off the stem, turn 
over, rub off the dirt and 
leave the under side exposed 
to a few days’ sunlight. Then carry in a spring wagon, or 
spring wheelbarrow, covered with old bags or hay to keep from 
any bruises. Store in the dryest part of the cellar, and if pos¬ 
sible where the temperature will not go below 40 degrees. Feave 
them on the vines in the field as late as possible, while escaping 
frosts. 
Tomatoes: Just before the first frosts are likely to begin, pick 
all of the best of the unripened fruits. Place part of these on 
clean straw in a coldframe, giving protection, where they will 
gradually ripen up. Place others, that are fully developed but 
not ripe, in straw in the cellar. In this way fresh tomatoes may 
frequently be had as late as Christmas. 
If the above suggestions are followed, the vegetable garden 
may be stretched far into the winter. But do not rest at that. 
Begin to plan now for your next year's garden. Put a pile of 
dirt where it will not be frozen, or dried out, when you want to 
(Continued on page 184) 
If you will plow up those parts of the garden that have “gone by,” 
and will sow rye in them, you will have a more presentable garden 
and will furnish the soil with humus for next year 
