HOUSE AND GARDEN 
October. 
1910 
219 
A cross-section of a 
vision for drainage. 
to cover the hole in the bottom 
below the surface of the potting soil. 
The next step is to select your 
“storage” place, where the bulbs are 
to be kept while making roots, and 
until they are wanted to flower in the 
house. A cold, dry cellar, if free 
from mice and dark, will do. If this 
is not available use the coldframe, if 
you have one. or simply dig a trench, 
in any well drained spot, about one 
foot deep, and long enough to hold 
your boxes and pots. After placing 
them here give them a thorough wa¬ 
tering, and cover with six or eight 
inches of soil. Cover Freesias only 
two inches, with a light soil. If you 
wish to keep tab on your plantings, 
use a long stake, with place for tag 
at the top. in each pan or box. Don't 
trust to your memory. 
Your bulbs will need no further 
care until they are ready to be brought 
in, except to cover the trench with 
leaves, litter or strawy manure on the 
approach of freezing weather, so that 
they may be got at easily when you 
want them. This will be in four or 
five weeks, for the Hyacinths and 
Polyanthus Narcissi. Success will be 
more certain with the Tulips and 
large-flowered Narcissus if you wait 
until the last of November before 
bringing them into the house. Their 
growth outside will have been almost 
entirely root growth; the first leaves 
may have started, but will not be more 
than an inch or two high. Immedi¬ 
ately upon bringing in, the bulbs 
should be given another good water¬ 
ing, and from this time on should 
never be allowed to suffer for water. 
W hen the flower spikes are half de¬ 
veloped, a little liquid manure, or 
nitrate of soda, or one of the prepared 
plant foods, dissolved in water, will 
be of great benefit applied about once 
a week. The temperature 
for bulbs just brought in 
should be at first only 45 to 
50 degrees ; after a few days 
10 degrees more. In the or¬ 
dinary living-room a little 
ventilation by opened win¬ 
dows will readily lower the 
temperature, but care should 
be taken not to expose the 
growing plants to any draft, 
forcing bulbs, like almost 
all other plants, will be bet¬ 
ter and healthier with the 
maximum amount of fresh 
air compatable with a suf¬ 
ficiently high temperature. 
I he plants thus brought in to water, light and warmth, will 
grow with remarkable rapidity. Just as the first buds are open¬ 
ing out is the ideal time to use them as presents, as they will 
Select bulbs that are large and firm. Small, shriveled 
bulbs are dear at any price 
a 
flower-pot, showing the pro- 
Use cinders or pot fragments 
Bulb-pans are better for forced bulbs than the ordi¬ 
nary round pot, as it is possible to get a greater 
mass of bloom 
continue subjects of daily attraction 
for a long time. Those that are kept 
can be saved, either to plant out or 
use another year (not next one). 
Let the soil gradually dry out when 
they are through blooming, and when 
the tops are dead take the bulbs from 
the soil, clean them and store in a 
perfectly dry place, or in boxes, in 
perfectly dry sand. 
The colors and other qualities of 
the many varieties of Hyacinths, 
Narcissi and Tulips will be found 
described in the fall catalogues of all 
the best seed-houses. 
As before stated, Hyacinths, Tu¬ 
lips, Narcissi and Freesia are the 
most readily forced and the most 
satisfactory bulbs. The beginner will 
do well, for his first attempt, to con¬ 
fine himself to these. There are. 
however, several more that respond 
practically to the same treatment, and 
whose various types of beauty will 
repay handsomely the trouble of 
forcing them. 
Among these is that queen of 
Lillies—the Easter Lily (Lilium lon- 
giflonim ). It requires a long season's 
growth, and after taking into the 
heat will stand 75 to 80 degrees, but 
will do well in a lower temperature. 
Secure large, firm bulbs, and put in 
well drained pots, about October 1st, 
and cover with only two or three 
inches of ashes or very rough manure. 
As they seem to be more subject to 
insect attacks, watch carefully, and if 
necessary use tobacco dust, whale-oil 
soap, or one of the prepared bug 
exterminators. 
Another very beautiful effect is 
had by getting a hanging basket, or a 
pot - hanger with which to suspend 
a six-inch or eight-inch bulb-pan, and 
in it start some Oxalis bulbs. They 
do not need to be rooted 
first, but should be placed 
at once in the light and 
heat (about 55 degrees). 
They will send out spray 
after spray of beautiful 
flowers, continuing in 
bloom for months. Dry 
off and rest about June, 
if started in October; and 
Pot a number of individual hyacinths and tulips and bring them into bud 
for Christmas gifts that will be deeply appreciated 
start again in the fall. 
Nothing makes a more 
acceptable gift or a bright 
own living- 
spot for your 
room than Lily - of - the - 
Valley blooming in winter. 
Set what are called “cold 
storage” pips. They can be grown in plain, coarse sand. Plant 
closely, leaving the tips exposed, place at once on a radiator or 
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