HOUSE AND GARDEN 
October, 
1910 
239 
off the tender new shoots when cultivat¬ 
ing before these are up in the spring. 
Burn the lighter tops and foliage of 
annuals, keeping the heavier stalks for 
weighting down the leaves used as a 
mulch next month. Burn all stalks that 
show the least signs of disease. 
Prepare your Rose beds now, although 
it is best to wait until spring to set out 
new bushes. Give them a place in full 
sun to themselves, with rich soil into 
which well rotted manure is dug to a 
A coldframe need by no means be an un¬ 
sightly garden accessory. In this Phila¬ 
delphia suburban home a three-sash bed is 
tucked away in a southeastern angle of 
the house 
depth of two feet. Plants will need to be 
set three feet apart, excepting the climb¬ 
ers and Rugosas, which should have four 
feet. 
Lift established Roses every five years 
to enrich the soil about their roots. This 
work may be done now, excepting in the 
case of tender Roses. 
If you have not already done so, sow 
seeds of early perennials for next season’s 
bloom, carrying the seedlings through the 
winter in the coldframe. 
Gather seeds of favorites, where a 
color has proven entirely pleasing, keep¬ 
ing the annuals until spring in labeled 
pill-boxes or vials. 
Dig old manure into the ground 
around plants that start into life early in 
the spring—Peonies, Phlox, Iris, Bleed¬ 
ing-heart, Valerian, Hollyhocks, Colum¬ 
bine, etc. 
This is the time to start Lilies-of-the- 
valley in that partially shaded portion of 
the border where it is difficult to secure 
bloom. Set the pips in deep, stiff, rich 
soil, one inch apart and three inches deep. 
If you have not already set out some 
Lilies ( speciosum , aiiratum, etc.), do it 
now, or wait until the latter part of 
March. 
Lawn and Vegetable Garden 
Look after the bare spots in your 
lawn. If these are small, loosen the soil 
with a sharp iron rake, top-dress with 
pulverized sheep manure, and seed. A 
baking-powder can, whose lid is punched 
full of holes, will be a convenient seed- 
sifter. Rake again and roll or tramp the 
soil firmly. If the bare spots are large, 
dig up the soil, sweeten it with lime if 
necessary and pulverize it very fine. 
Keep the lawn mowed, though not too 
close, as long as the grass continues to 
grow. Contrary to a popular notion, long 
grass does not protect its own roots bet¬ 
ter through the winter. Unsightly top- 
dressings of strawy manure are not ne¬ 
cessary. Try some pulverized sheep 
manure this fall and have a presentable 
and well nourished lawn throughout the 
winter. 
Sow rye in every bare spot of the 
vegetable garden after the vegetable oc¬ 
cupants have “gone by.” The rye will 
serve the double purpose of keeping the 
garden neat and flourishing in appearance 
and of reinvigorating the soil for next 
season. 
Sow Spinach and Onions (if the cli¬ 
mate is mild) outdoors for early spring 
crops. 
Trouble With Lupines 
T WAS much interested in a description of 
a border of Lupines which appeared in 
the House and Garden some time ago. I 
have seen some very beautiful white Lupines 
but they do not seem to thrive well. What 
should be done with them? 
Possibly their failure is due to one of 
three causes: — Poor plants in the first 
place, or canker or the possibility of the 
roots reaching down into an uncongenial 
soil. Early in September, lift the plants 
and examine them. If they are heaffhv at 
the roots, divide and replant them at 
once. If the roots be unhealthy, burn 
them without delay and start young, vig¬ 
orous plants at once from the seed. These 
after growth should be divided every 
third year and given change of soil. 
Ground Covers for Bulb Beds 
T a time when most persons are 
planning the planting of beds and 
borders of hardy bulbs, it is well to give 
Cosmos in pink, white and red is one of the 
late-blooming fall annuals that you should 
not be without 
some attention to the planting, too, of a 
suitable ground-cover plant. For years, 
I have used Arabis alpina, the single¬ 
flowering rock cress, and Phlox divari- 
cata. The former is-planted with bulbs 
bearing colored flowers, while the Phlox 
is used with white Tulips and white Hya¬ 
cinths. The Rock-cress, it is needless to 
say, is white and the Phlox lavender. 
There is no difficulty encountered in the 
cultivation of either. The bulbs are first 
planted and, this done, the bed leveled 
carefully and, without regard to the plan¬ 
tation of bulbs underneath, the Phlox and 
Rock-cress are set out. They take little 
nourishment from the soil and none from 
the rooting medium of the bulbs. T. B. 
The old-fashioned Marigold will prolong 
your garden well into the fall. Pinching 
back the tops will induce larger flowers 
