(Practical Pose Cult 
ure 
PLANT—PRUNE-CULTIVATE— PROTECT 
PREPARATION OF ROSE BEDS. Roses are heavy feeders and require a rich loam 
in which to produce their best. In preparing the bed, dig up the ground to a depth of 
12 to 18 inches, and replace about one-fourth of the bulk of the soil with well-rotted 
cow or horse manure. Select the spot for your Rose garden where the sun shines for 
at least half a day; out in the open where there is little chance of large trees or bushes 
robbing the soil of its nourishment. Avoid low spots, where the water stands for any 
length of time after a rain. Plant Roses where they will have their own room and never 
among other plants. 
PRUNING BEFORE PLANTING. Prune away any broken or mangled roots, re' 
move any weak branches and all but 3 or 4 canes. Roses planted in the fall should be 
cut back halfway until spring. In the spring they should be cut back to four or five buds. 
PLANTING. Roses should be planted as soon as they are re¬ 
ceived. If this is not possible, bury the roots in a shallow trench 
and cover tops with straw or burlap. Set the plant in the hole, 
spreading out the roots carefully and cover with good soil, and firm 
thoroughly. Roses will not thrive and grow if the soil is not thor¬ 
oughly firmed about the plants. If the ground is very dry, fill the 
hole with water when it is about two-thirds full of dirt, and allow 
this to settle before throwing back the rest of the dirt. Plant deep 
enough so that the union of bud and stock is one inch beneath the 
surface. Mound the soil around the Rose bushes when planting in 
the spring, and remove in 2 or 3 weeks after the growth has started. 
This prevents the Rose from drying out by sun and wind before 
the roots have become established. This is done again in the fall 
for winter protection and removed about the 10th of April. Plant 
the Roses 15 to 18 inches apart, according to size. This distance 
is sufficient for most of the Hybrid Teas and Baby Ramblers, 
though a few of the more vigorous Hybrid Teas may be planted 
iy 2 to 2 feet apart. Hybrid Perpetuals should be planted 2 feet 
apart each way, the Climbers about 6 feet apart if planted in rows. 
Climbing Roses are planted in th# same way as the bush kinds, but 
at a greater distance apart. Pruning of the broken and dried 
branches should be done when planting. Protect the canes from 
wind and sun until root action has started by wrapping with burlap 
or straw or by laying down the canes and covering lightly with soil. 
Established plants need only be pruned to keep them within bounds; 
this should be done after blooming or during the winter. 
Core After Planting 
CULTIVATION. Cultivate the 
top 'inch or two of the soil on the 
Rose bed each week, and water thor¬ 
oughly if the weather is dry. Much 
of this labor of cultivation can be 
eliminated if the beds are covered 
with a 2-inch mulch of grass clip¬ 
pings, peat moss, or strawy well- 
rotted stable manure about June 1st. 
A trowel full of bone meal, another 
of sheep manure or a small handful 
of Vigoro worked about each plant 
twice each season will produce a 
healthy, profuse blooming plant. 
YEARLY PRUNING. The same 
general pruning requirements hold 
for every type of Rose bush except 
the climbers, Harrison Yellow, Per¬ 
sian Yellow, Hugonis, and Rose 
species which require special treat¬ 
ment. The first step in the spring is to clean the base of the 
plant, removing all suckers, dead wood, and weak growth. Then 
remove the old wood which has bloomed for 2 years or more. 
It is easily recognized by the dark color and its general appear¬ 
ance. These varieties mentioned should be trimmed after they are 
through blooming. 
HYBRID TEAS. The second step, shortening the branches, re¬ 
quires a little more care and thought. The Hybrid Teas should be 
pruned according to the type of bloom desired. For average prun¬ 
ing, remove about two-thirds of the previous year’s growth. If you 
want Roses for bouquets (long stemmed) remove about three- 
fourths of the previous year’s growth. For exceptionally fine indi¬ 
vidual blossoms, prune even lower, and leave but two good canes 
on the plant. 
HYBRID TEAS. The second step, shortening the branches, re- 
above, if best results are to be obtained. 
BABY RAMBLERS. The base of the plant should be cleaned of 
weak growth and the spent flower heads should be removed before 
going to seed, if you desire continuous bloom all summer. 
RAMBLERS. Remove all dead wood, and after blooming, all 
old canes, so as to force new canes from bottom, for next season’s 
bloom. Leading Ramblers are such as Crimson Rambler, Dorothy 
Perkins, Excelsa. 
CLIMBERS keep growing from near the top of the old canes. 
Therefore, cut out only dead wood, and such branches as tend to 
spoil the shape of the bush. Leading Climbers are such as Paul’s 
Scarlet, Dr. W. Van Fleet, and Primrose. 
WINTER PROTECTION. If the winters are severe, the Hybrid 
Teas should be protected in the winter by hilling up the earth 
about the stems in the autumn, and after the ground is frozen 
protected from alternate thawing and freezing by covering the en¬ 
tire mound with leaves or evergreen boughs. 
Spraying and Dusting 
Powdered sulphur sprinkled on the plants once very two weeks 
will control mildew. A frequent spraying of the plants with Black 
Leaf 40 will kill plant lice or aphis which are a common rose pest. 
A thorough dusting of Roses with a mixture made up of one part 
lead arsenate, one part tobacco dust, and nine parts dusting sulphur 
is a fine preventative as well as a cure for most all Rose diseases. 
34 
Edward Lehde Nurseries, Gardenville, N. Y. 
