verareens 
FOR YEAR ROUND BEAUTY 
Contrary to popular belief evergreens are not diffi¬ 
cult to grow. In fact, they are as easily grown as most 
shrubs, but grow more slowly. They should, however, 
be freshly dug from the nursery and replanted im¬ 
mediately, before they have time to become dried by 
the sun and wind. Dig a hole large enough to ac¬ 
commodate the ball of ground and fill in around the 
roots with fine soil, packing well. They should be 
watered thoroughly when planted and repeat the water¬ 
ing after a few days. 
Evergreens should be selected and placed even more 
carefully than trees and shrubs as they are definite in 
habit, texture and color. They remain the same in 
the landscape at all seasons, their only change being 
an increase in height and spread. 
The types of evergreens used in foundation planting, 
that is, around the house, range from the tall pyramidal 
forms to the low creeping forms. The tall, narrow types 
are suitable for the corners and give accent at the door¬ 
way, gateway, or garden entrance. Among these are 
the pyramidal Arbor-Vitae, Siberian Arbor-Vitae, Col¬ 
umnar Juniper, Irish Juniper, and Red Cedar. 
Low growing, spreading types are used in front of 
the pyramidal forms, and to fill in under windows, be¬ 
tween entrance and corner. In this group are Pfitzer’s 
Juniper, Savin’s Juniper, Japanese Yew, Mugho Pine, 
Siberian Arbor-Vitae. For edging, to make the ever¬ 
green planting complete, Pachysandra (Japanese 
Spurge) is invaluable. 
The charm q { conifers is in their variety of form, 
their dependability in giving beauty of color every 
month in the year and in their feeling of strength and 
ruggedness. In winter harsh and bleak landscapes are 
enlivened and given a feeling of warmth by their dark 
beauty and gentle lines and in summer they impart a 
sense of coolness. For formal or informal hedges, 
screens or windbreaks, they are invaluable. 
Care must be used in the choice, location and spac¬ 
ing of evergreens, for many, like most of the Hem¬ 
locks and the Firs, will reach an eventual height of 
thirty to one hundred feet, while the Yews, some of 
the Arbor-Vitaes and many of the Junipers are dwarf 
or spreading in habit. 
More plantings are spoiled through crowding than 
through planting too sparsely—so allow plenty of 
room for future growth. 
We are glad to give expert advice to customers as 
to best varieties and proper treatment for each need 
and use. 
There are several common mistakes made in the 
planting of evergreens. Forest tree varieties such as 
White Pine, Austrian Pine, Scotch Pine and Norway 
Spruce should never be used for the foundation plant¬ 
ing. In a few years they will be out of scale with their 
surroundings, as they are of tall, rank growth. They 
have their place, however, in large group plantings, in 
screen plantings, and in the background. 
Evergreens, in general, are not tolerant of shade. 
Junipers, one of the best types for foundation plant¬ 
ings, particularly dislike shade. The Juniper is one of 
the most valuable of the evergreens because of the 
many variations in form and color. It ranges from a 
creeping form to an upright, pyramidal form, and from 
blue-green to dark green in color. Other evergreens 
which will not tolerate shade are Arbor-Vitaes, Retinos- 
poras, Pines and Spruces. One type of evergreen, 
however, grows well in partial shade, and that is the 
Yew (Taxus). This is also a very hardy evergreen and 
will withstand city conditions. 
Some semi-evergreens and most of the broad¬ 
leaved evergreens will also grow in partially shaded 
places, but some require acid soil. In this group can 
be included Kalmia, Rhododendron, Leucothoe, Pieris, 
and Azalea. There is another group of broad-leaved 
evergreens which are not so particular as to acid soil, 
or are at least indifferent to lime in the soil. In this 
group can be included Pachysandra, Pyracantha, Ma- 
honia, and Euonymus. Euonymus is a good filler for 
foundation plantings as it does well in either sun or 
shade and can withstand the wind. 
The coming trend seems to be toward more tasteful 
plantings of the rarer, slower-growing kinds of ever¬ 
greens, some of which have been mentioned above. 
Maintenance. When dry weather comes in the latter 
part of June, July, August and early September, it is 
advisable to water newly planted evergreens, especially 
for first two or three weeks after transplanting. When 
watering becomes a necessity, do not water every day 
but at intervals of once a week or ten days. A thor¬ 
ough soaking twice a week is far more beneficial than 
a daily sprinkling of the top soil. 
Edward Lehde Nurseries, Gardenville, N. Y. 
