LAKESIDE DAHLIA GARDENS, NEW BALTIMORE, MICH. 
Dahlia Culture 
• • • • 
SOIL. Dahlias will grow in any soil provided there are sufficient plant foods in the 
soil to supply the needs for proper growth. Many soils can be improved to grow 
better dahlias. A heavy soil or clay soil may be improved by the addition of sand 
and the use of quantities of rotted manure and peat. 
FERTILIZER. Before adding plant foods, have your soil tested to determine de- 
ficiences. Generally, 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet of a fertilizer analyzing 
2-12-8, or thereabouts, will meet most requirements, if the soil has already had 
organic material added to it. After the first of August, when the plants are begin¬ 
ning to show flower buds, “feeding” with small amounts of nitrogenous fertilizers, 
once or twice, will favor the development of larger flowers and more vigorous plants. 
DIVISION. Never plant a “clump” of roots. Divide the clump carefully into a 
number of parts so that each division will have one sound, healthy tuber, and one 
or two plump buds. 
PLANTING. For exhibition flowers, dahlias should be planted at least 3 feet apart 
each way. Dwarf varieties for bedding and varieties used for landscape effect may 
be planted closer. Dwarf singles, as Coltness Gem, should be planted 12 to 14 inches 
apart for best bedding effects. Dig the holes at least 6 inches deep. Place the 
tuber horizontally in the bottom of the hole with the bud an inch or so from the 
stake. Cover the roots with about 2 to 3 inches of soil. As the plants grow the 
hole may be filled in by cultivating. 
STAKING. Five to 7 foot stakes will be required to support tall growing varieties. 
The stakes should be set in at the time of planting. If you wait until later to drive 
in the stakes, much damage may be done to the roots of the plants. 
PRUNING. Large-flowered types and bedding types should have the tips of the 
plants cut out when they have reached a height of 8 to 12 inches. Cactus varieties 
are often permitted to grow until the first buds appear. These are then pinched 
out to encourage the growth of the laterals. For exhibition flowers, allow only 3 or 4 
branches to develop. Remove side buds and all laterals, except those at the bottom, 
from each of the branches. 
WATERING. If “green plants” are planted, water carefully for the first 2 weeks. 
Through July never allow the soil to dry out sufficiently to cause a checking of the 
growth. After the first of August and until early or mid,-September, dahlias wil,l 
require plenty of water. If the soil is well drained, there is not much danger of 
overwatering. Throughout the summer on dry hot days, the plants will be much 
benefited by a thorough syringing in the early afternoon. 
DIGGING. After the first heavy frost, the tops of the plants will blacken andi dry. 
A few days to a week after a frost the tops should be cut off and the clumps dug up. 
They should be carefully dried off in the sun for several hours before being stored. 
STORAGE. Store the tubers in dry granulated peat in a cool place. The best 
storage temperature is about 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The storage atmosphere should 
be moist enough to prevent excess drying of the roots and at the same time not so 
moist as to encourage mold or storage rots. 
In the fall when your dahlias are blooming, enter some blooms in the Dahlia 
Shows near you. You will have lots of pleasure and will learn much about dahlias 
at the exhibitions. 
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