76 
House & Garden 
■agi 
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‘^eds of fS)ood 
CBeauty of ^ood-strength of steel 
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I 
Roses for Lawn and Border 
{Continued jroni page 74) 
places. Both these varieties are rela¬ 
tively tall, reaching a height of from 
6 to 8 feet. The Rosa lucida, a wild 
type native from Pennsylvania north, is, 
on the other hand, desirable for a low 
ground cover 2 to 3 feet high. It grows 
well at the seaside and under other 
adverse conditions. The Prairie rose 
has a wider range than any of the 
other roses named above, being native 
from Canada to Florida and west to 
Wisconsin, Nebraska and Texas. It is 
a single variety and thrives under ad¬ 
verse conditions. Among the other roses 
useful for landscape planting are the 
Arkansas rose, Sweet Brier, Rosa eglan- 
teria or Rosa lutea, Dwarf Polyantha, 
Cabbage rose, and the Damask rose. 
Soils and Fertilizers 
The roses classed in the lawn and 
border group are adapted to a wide 
range of soil conditions and may be 
counted on to succeed in any but ex¬ 
tremely heavy or very sandy soils. 
Many of them will do well even on 
such soil types. The principle essen¬ 
tials are thorough drainage and a plen¬ 
tiful supply of organic matter, with a 
reasonably constant water supply dur¬ 
ing the growing season. In general, a 
soil capable of growing good garden or 
field crops is suitable for roses. The 
deeper the soil and the better the prepa¬ 
ration at the beginning, the more satis¬ 
factory will be the results. 
The best fertilizer for roses is rotted 
cow manure, though any other well- 
rotted manure or good compost will 
serve the purpose. Fresh manure, espe¬ 
cially horse manure, should be avoided, 
though if no other manure is available it 
m.ay be used with extreme care. It must 
not come in direct contact with the 
roots when planting nor should any 
quantity of it be used immediately be¬ 
neath the plant to cut off direct con¬ 
nection with the subsoil and the water 
supply. Of the commercial fertilizers, 
ground bone is excellent as additional 
food. It will not, however, answer as 
a substitute for an abundant supply of 
compost. Cottonseed meal, where it is 
cheap enough, may be used as a sub¬ 
stitute for bone. Wood ashes are 
sometimes a helpful addition or. when 
they are not available, lime and muriate 
of potash may be used and should be 
applied separately. Rose growers hav¬ 
ing only sandy soils should make more 
frequent applications of manure than 
those dealing with the heavier soils, 
since the organic matter burns out more 
rapidly in a soil rich in sand. 
The chief consideration in the plant¬ 
ing plan for roses for landscape effects 
is that the plants should be so spaced 
that when they reach maturity they 
will come together without overcrowd¬ 
ing. The habits of growth of the par¬ 
ticular varieties chosen will be the de¬ 
termining factor. The spacing should 
in general range from 2 to 6 feet. Early 
spring planting is best in the extreme 
northern part of the United States and 
on the western plains where there are 
strong drying winds in winter. In 
other regions fall planting is advan¬ 
tageous but not sufficiently so to war¬ 
rant postponing planting from spring 
until autumn. When possible, however, 
it is well enough to push planting in the 
fall rather than to wait until spring. 
Spring planting should be done as soon 
as the ground is dry enough to work, 
or when it springs apart after being 
squeezed in the hand. Fall planting is 
best done as soon as the leaves have 
fallen from trees and bushes. 
General Planting Methods for Roses 
Planting methods for border and 
lawn roses apply also to practically all 
other roses. Stock should be planted as 
soon as possible after it arrives. When 
it is impossible to plant immediately. 
the plants should be placed in a trench 
and the roots covered. If the plant 
roots are dry when received, soaking 
them in water an hour or more before ' 
this heeling-in is done is desirable. If I 
the stems are shriveled, plumpness may 
be restored and growth insured by i 
burying the whole plant for a few 
days. If the plants are frozen when 
received they should be placed where I 
they will thaw gradually and should 
not be unpacked until there is no ques- 
tion that the frost is out. 
More plants are killed by undue ex¬ 
posure of roots at planting time than 
from any other cause. No matter how j 
short the distance to the permanent 
planting location, plants should be taken I 
there with the roots thoroughly covered. 
The roots may be placed in a bucket 
of water while removing to the plant¬ 
ing ground and until planting, or they j 
may be puddled in a mixture of thin 
clay and then kept covered with wet I 
burlap or other protection. Care should 
be taken that the clay does not become 
dry before planting. It is important 
to set the plants a little deeper than 
they were before. If planted too deep, 
however, the bark of the buried stems 
would be injured and growth would be 
checked until new roots form nearer 
the surface. 
In planting dormant bushes it is de¬ 
sirable to trim the ends of broken 
roots and any that are too long just 
before they are put into the hole, so 
that there will be smooth, fresh surfaces 
which can callus and heal over. It is 
usual to have this fresh-cut surface on 
the under side of the root. The hole 
in which the bush is to be planted 
should be several inches larger across 
than the roots will extend and ample in 
depth, with a little loose earth on the 
bottom. The roots should be separated 
well in all directions, with the soil well 
worked in among them, separating them 
into layers, each of which should be 
spread out like the fingers of the hand. 
When the hole is partially full, the 
plant should be shaken up and down so 
as to make sure it is in close contact 
with the soil under the crown where 
the roots branch. When the roots are 
well covered the soil should be firmed. 
This is best done by tramping. If the 
soil is in proper condition tramping 
cannot injure the plants. This will 
leave a depression about them, but all 
the roots will be covered. 
When all are planted, each one may 
be watered, although this usually is not 
necessary, especially if the roots have 
been puddled before planting. If water 
is applied, permit it to soak in about the 
roots and then fill the hole with dry 
earth. Do not tramp after watering. 
With the soil wet it would be injurious 
to compact it more. If not watered, 
the depression should be filled with 
loose earth, the same as though it had 
been watered. After planting no water¬ 
ing should be done unless very dry 
weather follows, and even then care 
must be exercised not to overdo it till 
after growth starts. In watering, it is 
desirable to draw away some earth from 
about the bush, apply the water, and 
after it has soaked in draw dry earth 
about the plant again. 
Pruning Border and Lawn Roses 
The purposes for which roses are 
planted largely will determine the prun¬ 
ing methods to be employed. At the 
time of planting border and lawn roses, 
one-half to two-thirds of the wood 
should be removed. At later prunings 
weak branches should be taken off, and 
long canes that would be liable to whip 
around and loosen the plant should be 
cut back. .4s far as practicable, prun¬ 
ing other than this should be accom¬ 
plished by cutting out whole branches 
rather than by cutting off the ends. 
