LEONARD COATES NURSERY COMPANY, MORGANHILL, CAL. 
Wo wish to emphasize the importance of strict attention 
to the handling and care of trees as above briefly outlined. 
Wo have had occasion to investigate cases of complaint ot 
trees not growing well, and invariably, without a single ex¬ 
ception, the cause has been gross lack of proper care in 
•ome particular. 
If any trees or plants are not satisfactory when 
received they must be returned, properly packed, 
within two days after they are received, as no 
claim on any account whatever will be allowed 
otherwise. 
INSECT PESTS AND TREE 
DISEASES 
There are certain formulas in the matter of insect con¬ 
trol concerning which there is little change or difference of 
opinion. It is always advisable, however, to consult the 
State Horticultural Commissioner at Sacramento, or any 
of his deputies, or the duly-appointed County Commissioner, 
or the State University at Berkeley, if there exists any doubt 
as to the disease or pest, and the most up-to-date method 
by which its ill effects may be controlled. For fungus 
diseases, such as peach blight, curl leaf, etc., use 
BORDEAUX MIXTURE 
When trees are dormant. 
Copper sulphate. 5 lbs. 
Stone lime.. 5 lbs. 
Water...50 gals. 
Dissolve the copper sulphate by putting it in a bag of 
coarse cloth, and hanging this in a vessel holding at least 
four gallons, so that it is just covered by the water. Use 
an earthen or wooden vessel. Slake the lime in an equal 
amount of water, then mix the two and add water to make 
fifty gallons. Apply in early winter and again just as buds 
are opening, if possible. 
TREE WHITEWASH 
Quicklime. 30 lbs. 
Tallow. 4 lbs. 
Salt. 5 lbs. 
Water enough to make mixture flow freely. 
LIME-SULPHUR 
A winter wash to clean trees, kill scale, etc. 
Quicklime...33 lbs. 
Sulphur ......66 lbs. 
Water...200 gals. 
Sift sulphur through box with screen bottom into boiling 
tank with 50 gallons of water. Add the lime and boil 45 
minutes to one hour. Stir frequently. Strain through cheese 
cloth or burlap and dilute to make 200 gallons. Or use 
commercial brand. 
TOBACCO EXTRACT 
For plant lice or thrips 
“Black leaf 40” or nicotine sulphate, 
2 to 3 lbs.; water, 200 gals. 
It is better to add soap to the water to make a good suds. 
Sometimes the aphis will curl up the ends of leavta so 
that no spray will reach them, in which case, the only thing 
to do is to cut off infested ends pf twigs. 
ARSENATE OF LEAD 
For codling moth in apples or pears, and also for pear 
slug, canker worm and other chewing insects. The com¬ 
mercial brands are reliable. Usually 2^& pounds to 50 gal¬ 
lons water is the proper strength. 
THE PEERLESS SPRAY 
We cannot speak too highly of this spray if it is properly 
used. The stronger insecticides must be applied when the 
trees are dormant, which, in a wet winter is often impos¬ 
sible unless the application is made very early. The Peer¬ 
less is so compounded that, diluted to proper strength, it 
has no injurious effect upon blossoms or foliage, although it 
is repellent to insect life for a long time after spraying. If 
a lime-sulphur spray is used during winter, always follow 
with the Peerless in the spring and early summer, or use 
the Peerless in fall and in spring. It is a tree cleanser, and 
no insects seem to thrive or continue to be a pest if it is 
regularly applied. It costs less than one cent a gallon 
For sale by Peerless Spray Co., F. L. Meier, manage?. 
Linden, Cal., or by us. 
KEROSENE EMULSION 
This is very useful for controlling scale and most pests 
that bother the trees and shrubs in town lots or small 
orchards. It is very efficient and can be applied any time if 
diluted with more water when trees are in full leaf. 
Kerosene....<.2 gals. 
Hard, soft or whale-oil soap... Y 2 lb. 
Water (soft)....1 gal. 
Dissolve the soap in hot water, add the kerosene; agitate 
thoroughly while hot with a hand pump by pumping back 
into the solution until it becomes thick and creamy. Then 
dilute by adding 15 to 25 gallons of water, according to the 
time of the year. 
For Red Spider and Yellow Mite, which is a serious pest 
on almond, prune, and other trees, use dry sublimed sul¬ 
phur, applied from middle of May at intervals of 10 days 
till all eggs are hatched, using a Vermorel or a Beauty 
Sprayer, or a power machine, seeing that sulphur is well 
spread. Or a sulphur applied as a liquid spray sold by 
several manufacturers. 
Trees will get weaker and fail to produce good buds if this 
pest is not kept in check. 
BOOKS YOU NEED 
“California Fruits and How to Grow Them,” by Prof. E. 
J. Wickson. New edition brought up to date in fullest 
details. Price, $3.00 prepaid. Indispensable to every Cali¬ 
fornia fruit-grower. Also: 
“California Vegetables.” Price, $2.00. 
“California Garden Flowers.” Price, $1.50. 
“One Thousand Questions in California Agriculture 
Answered.” Price, $1.50. 
All by the same author. 
SUNBURN IN FRUIT TREES 
By W. L. HOWARD, 
Division of Pomology. 
Fruit growers should be warned at this time 
against the danger that may result from sunburn 
in young fruit trees. The beginner in the fruit 
business especially is liable to overlook the neces¬ 
sity for protecting his trees against sun injury 
the first year. While trees may sunburn when 
three or four years old, or even older, they are 
more likely to be injured the first year they are in 
the orchard. 
One standard remedy against sunburn is to 
whitewash the trees. A whitewash formula used 
by many growers in the Sacramento Valley is 
made by using: Lime 30 pounds, tallow four 
pounds, salt 5 pounds. The tallow and salt are 
stirred in while the lime is slaking or while the 
mixture is still hot. Use just enough water 
to make a thin paste and then thin to the desired 
thickness for spreading with a brush or applying 
with a sprayer. 
Other methods, of protecting trees against 
sunburn are to use wooden tree wrappers or drive 
two stakes in the ground so as to shade the 
tree from the south and west. If trees are well 
protected from sunburn there may be little or no 
injury from the flat-headed borers which do so 
much damage throughout the sta,te. Whitewash is 
not a secure protection against the borers as it 
soon cracks as the trees grow. The wooden wrap¬ 
pers are the best all-round protectors against sun¬ 
burn, borers and rabbits. These should be thrust 
into the ground for an inch or two to prevent 
blowing about, and to prevent the entrance of the 
round-headed or crown borer. The flat-headed 
borers are not apt to attack trees that are in a 
good growing condition. Just as soon as the trees 
become weakened from any cause, or even one part 
of the tree is weakened from sunburn, the borers 
are pretty certain to begin their attacks. 
A covering of Grade D asphaltum or S Flotine 
applied in March will keep out the borer, and also 
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