LEONARD COATES NURSERY COMPANY, MORGANHILL, CAL, 
PLEASE READ THIS 
Location. Our freight, express and postoffice are at 
Morganhill, and our office, orchards, experimental grounds, 
and eucalyptus groves, seventy acres in all, are within three- 
quarters of a mile from railroad. We are on the main S. 
P. line between San Francisco and the South, with ready 
access to the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys via Niles 
and Tracy. 
Shipping 1 . Give plain directions as to route, and 
whether by freight or express. We recommend express for 
all except large shipments. 
Parcels Post. When there is any saving to our custo¬ 
mers we ship small packages by parcels post, if possible, 
postage and packing extra being charged. Send for our 
special offer of 50c and $1 collections prepaid. 
Responsibility. We cannot be held liable for any 
damage that may result from delays in transportation or 
through the inability of the horticultural officers to make 
prompt inspection. 
Orders. We aim to fill orders in rotation as received, 
and will always endeavor to use the utmost promptness. 
Substitutions. Always state, in a mixed order, if any 
substitutions may be made or not. If “no substitution’* is 
written on order, such instructions will be carefully heeded. 
Complaints. All claims for shortage, or any other 
possible mistakes, must be made within two days after re¬ 
ceipt of stock or they cannot be allowed. Carefully ex¬ 
amine trees or plants upon arrival. If anything is wrong, 
notify us at once; adjustments, if any are needed, are made 
at this time. 
Guarantee of Genuineness. While every care is 
taken to sell stock true to name and description, mistakes 
may sometimes occur, in which case, on proper proof being 
presented, we shall be ready to refund the amount paid or 
will replace such trees or other stock. 
It is mutually understood and agreed to between pur¬ 
chaser and ourselves that such guarantee of genuineness 
shall in no case make us liable for any sum greater than 
the original amount paid for any stock that may prove to be 
untrue. If this is not agreed to by purchaser, trees or 
plants must be returned at once. 
Packing. This is done in the best manner, and 
charges made simply to cover cost of material used. No 
charge for cartage to railroad. 
The charge per bale would amount to about 25c to $2.50, 
according to size, and for ornamental stock, from 25c to 
$1.50 per box. Small plants in flats, 15c each flat. 
SOME TREE PLANTING HINTS 
Digging the Hole. Dig the holes, preferably 2^x2% 
feet. If subsoil is heavy, blasting in the fall is recom¬ 
mended, before rains. Always have bottom of the hole con¬ 
vex, and spread roots naturally, pressing earth firmly about 
them with the hand. Never plant a tree deeper than it 
stood naturally in the nursery. Fill in with moderately dry 
surface soil, tamping very firmly, and leave the top loose. 
Time to Plant. The time for planting deciduous trees 
in California is any time after the ground can be prepared 
and the dormant trees can be procured. Usually this is 
about the first of January. This gives about three months 
in which to plant, and then let the work be done as quickly 
as possible, weather conditions being favorable. 
Heading Back. A deciduous fruit or almond tree 
should be not less than 2 feet from the ground after it 
is planted, and this may be a guide for “heading back.” 
This length of trunk allows for proper spacing of branches 
which are to form the head, and of which there should never 
be more than four, preferably three. Always leave plenty 
of small laterals wherever they exist, and shorten them in 
to 3 or 4 buds. This should be repeated annually. 
Irrigating. The only rule governing irrigation is to 
see that the tree or plant has sufficient moisture, and to 
apply water to that end. Extremes should be avoided. 
Never wait till soil is dry, and then “give a bucketful,” or 
flood the land, but add water in the manner most practic¬ 
able under existing conditions, while soil is moist enough to 
absorb it. In other words, “little and often” is better 
than the extremes of drouth and flood. A little water ap¬ 
plied to newly-planted trees in the spring, after rains are 
over, will keep roots active, and do much more good than 
a large quantity given after soil gets dry and roots have 
stopped growing. 
Walnuts. The tops of walnut trees should be cut back 
to about 5 feet; the wood at top is soft and pithy, from 
which buds do not start well; the walnut may be pruned, 
as any other tree, in order to get a compact, well-rounded 
head. 
“Sour-Sap.” At the moment it is believed that sour- 
sap in root or in branches may be due to three causes, act¬ 
ing singly or sometimes, perhaps, acting together. They are 
(I) loss of root hairs by too dry soil in the autumn; (2) 
loss of root hairs by decay in water-soaked soil in the 
winter; (3) injury to branch tissue by sharp frost after 
sap-flo-w has started. All these conditions interfere with 
normal sap circulation and induce fermentation, which gives 
rise to the name “sour-sap ”—Pacific Rural Press. 
Remember. On receiving trees, open bale at once, cut 
open bunches, and spread roots in shallow trench; cover 
with sand or fine earth, and if weather is dry, soak the 
ground well. 
If any trees should appear dry, they may be soaked, root 
and top, in a trough all night. 
While planting, keep roots moist by leaving them in a 
barrel half full of water or by “puddling” before taking to 
the field. This means to dip the roots into a hole previ¬ 
ously prepared so that it is full of mud of the consistency 
of stiff paint; this will keep roots from drying quickly. 
Shading. Shade the trunks with tree protectors or with 
burlap or paper; this is very important, as it prevents 
sunburn. 
Spraying. Spray twice a year with Peerless Spray, and 
trees are more likely to remain healthy; it cost9 but little, 
and can be applied any time in the year. 
Ornamentals. Special instructions will be given regard¬ 
ing the handling and care of.evergreen or other ornamental 
stock. 
Report at once if anything does not seem right, or if 
information on any subject is desired. 
The Expan Tree Protector is very popular. We recom¬ 
mend it. Can be ordered from us, and shipped with trees. 
Different Roots for Different Soils. For the driest^ 
soils, or where the water level falls low, and where there 
is no clay subsoil, the apricot root is to be recommended. 
On this root the apricot and the peach do very well, also 
some varieties of plum or prune. Where the soil is inclined 
to be dry and is well drained naturally, the almond root is 
preferable, and it is hardier than the apricot, standing better 
if the roots should penetrate to clay or more or less im¬ 
pervious rocky strata. The almond and the French prune 
succeed especially well on this root, ns do also other varie¬ 
ties of plum, peach, and apricot. The peach root is more 
adaptive than either of the preceding, succeeding in a wider 
range of soils. It will thrive in heavy soil, if water does 
not stand too near the surface in the spring, and will also 
succeed in fairly dry or sandy soils, although in the latter 
irrigation would be helpful. The peaoh h (MOIllljl propa¬ 
gated on peach root. Apricots, almonds, Fmoh prunes, and 
most other varieties of plum do well on peach root. 
The apple requires a rich soil, with plenty of moisture. 
Pears do well on heavy or very wet soil, but if extremely 
wet and heavy the quince root should be used, in which 
case the trees should be planted 15 feet apart, us they grow 
small and stocky; produce while young, and bear very large 
fruit. 
The Myrobolan plum root is most largely used for the 
plum or prune family where tho soil is heavy and inclined 
to be wet late in the spring, or where there is a clay sub¬ 
soil. It is also a good stock for the apricot in similar loca¬ 
tions, but it is better to plant the apricot only where the 
soil would be congenial to the peach, apricot or almond 
root. Many orchards have proved fuilur«-* lirc.ni*»o <>f mis- 
planting in regard to the root being unsuited to the soil 
conditions. 
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