Rutherford, M J. ^American-Grown Rgses 
INSURING ROSE PROSPERITY 
The Time to Plant Roses 
Roses may be planted either in the fall or in 
the spring. Many experienced growers prefer 
fall planting because then there is less haste, the 
ground is warm, and the plants are in position, 
ready to take advantage of the first spring push. 
(See suggestions for fall planting on next page.) 
Spring Planting 
By far the larger part of Rose-planting is done 
in the spring. It should be done early, and we 
again urgently request our friends to place their 
Rose orders in midwinter, so that shipment may 
be made at the most favorable time for insuring 
success. 
Late Spring Planting 
For those who for any reason are prevented 
from early spring planting, we have provided in 
all the leading varieties a limited supply of Roses 
which have been started in pots, not in green¬ 
houses but in coldframes, and these we can ship 
for garden extension or garden replacement at 
any time while they last. 
Getting Ready for Roses 
While Roses will endure poor conditions and 
flower under such conditions, the success which 
follows proper preparation makes that prepara¬ 
tion always advisable. 
Deep preparation of the soil is often urged, 
even to as much as 3 feet, and while in cases 
where drainage is poor this is important, it is by 
no means always essential. Good results may 
be had with far less expense and trouble. To 
stir the ground thoroughly to the depth of two 
spade-shoves, put down honestly 9 inches each 
shove, will usually provide for root prosperity. 
If the ground is soggy or wet, there must be 
drainage provided—Roses want plenty of water 
passing through the soil, but they will not endure 
wet feet! Rough clods, stones, bats, etc., to a 
depth of 6 inches will do the draining. 
Roses are not dainty feeders. They like strong 
soil and plenty of food. The heavy soils, like 
those of clay, seem to please them most, though 
even in sand they will do well if additional food 
is supplied. 
Well-rotted manure—cow manure preferred, 
stable manure nearly as good—is the key that 
unlocks the flower gates for Roses. Plenty of it, 
to the extent of one-third the whole bulk that 
has been stirred up; well-rotted for certain; 
thoroughly mixed in the soil, so that the Rose 
roots may easily find it; and the planter may feel 
that he has done his part. 
Bone-meal will help, if available, especially 
when worked into the soil as planting is done, at 
rate of a large trowelful to a plant. Commercial 
sheep manure, in the same proportion, is useful. 
Scotch soot, resulting from the burning of 
peat, is of known value, both as a fertilizer for 
spring dressing and to bother the bugs; and any 
soot from a chimney above a wood-fire is valuable. 
Well-rotted manure is the standby of the 
Rose-grower, however. Put in plenty, and then 
put in some more when the beds are prepared. 
Dig more in each spring; keep at it; Roses often 
starve to death, but seldom die of indigestion! 
Planting Roses 
If at all practicable, the Rose-bed ought to be 
ready long enough before the Roses come to 
permit the ground thoroughly to settle. For 
early spring planting the preparation might well 
be made the preceding autumn, while for the 
desirable fall planting several weeks of “settling” 
will help, though not essential. 
When the Roses arrive from our nurseries, the 
planter should have the ground ready. Open 
the package and separate the bundles, then “heel 
in”—which is simply loose planting in a slanting 
trench—so that the plants can be taken for 
setting 2 or 3 at a time. Keep the roots covered 
all the time, and if it is windy, carry the plants 
to the place of planting in a pail of water. Rose 
roots are not intended to be exposed to the air; 
they belong in the ground. 
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