WORTHY OF GENERAL CULTURE. 
45 
the preferable time for planting, 
as it gives the plants a season’s 
growth to become established 
before they need endure the severity 
of a winter. In this latitude roses 
may be planted from the first of 
May until the end of June — the 
earlier the better. The location 
for roses is the next consideration. 
The rose bed should be protected 
from the west winds and have a 
southern or eastern exposure, if 
possible. It is a good plan to make 
the beds or border of Hybrid Roses 
on the east side of a fence, and 
the hardier and free-growing 
climbers may be used to cover the 
fence itself. Roses that are to be 
grown for the perfection of their 
blooms should never be in close 
proximity to a building or trees. A 
location for the roses being decided 
upon, the next thing is to prepare 
the soil, and if the ground is not 
naturally well drained, the bed 
should be dug out to the depth of 
two feet, and eight or ten inches of 
broken stone thrown in the bottom ; the soil can 
then be put back. The rose likes a rich soil, but 
there is danger of making it too rich the first season, 
before the plants become well established. A heavy 
or clay subsoil is supposed to be best for roses. They 
will, however, do equally as well in sandy soil, but will require more 
manure. For enriching the soil there is nothing so good as thoroughly- 
rotted cow manure. In planting, the roses should be set somewhat deeper 
in the soil than they have been in the pots, and especially if the plants are 
budded or grafted ; in fact, deep enough that the union may be below 
the surface of the soil. 
We are sometimes asked which is the better, a budded rose or one 
that is on its own roots — that is, grown from a cutting. I don’t think 
there is much difference. The danger is, with budded roses, if care is not CLIMBING ROSE ON HOUSE, 
taken to remove the shoots coming from the roots they will choke out the 
choice sort and nothing will be left but the wild rose on which it was budded. Some roses are almost impossible to 
propagate except by budding or grafting, while others seem to be more vigorous and have finer flowers if they draw 
their sustenance through the roots of a wild rose. After planting, the rose beds should be covered with a light mulching 
of manure, and this is all the feeding they will require the first season. After the first season they should occasionally 
be fed with liquid manure, which can be made with cow manure or night soil, but extreme care must be observed in using 
the latter, as there is danger of overdoing it and giving the roses too much of a good thing. Every fall five or six 
inches of manure should be placed on the rose beds — always cow manure, if obtainable. This will serve to protect the 
roses from injury in the winter and will materially enrich the soil. In the spring as much of this manure as possible should 
be dug into the ground ; any rough residue can be raked up and carried away. 
Insects and Diseases. — Roses that are in perfect health and vigor are not nearly so liable to be attacked by insects 
as plants that have been neglected and are stunted ; and as for remedies, prevention is better than cure. One best way of 
prevention is the free use of clear water, by syringing the plants daily. For this purpose a powerful garden syringe should 
be used ; or, in suburban gardens, where the city water is used, the hose will do. The water should be thrown on to the 
plants with as great force as possible, and care be taken that the water strikes the under side of the foliage as well as the 
upper. 
The APHIS, or Green Fly, is well known by all rose growers. It is a small green louse, about an eighth of an inch 
long. They are very prolific in breeding, and if left undisturbed for a few days will literally cover the young growth on 
which they feed. They are easily destroyed with a solution made by steeping tobacco stems in boiling water. This should 
be applied freely with a whisk broom to the affected plants. Whale oil soap dissolved in water will answer the same 
purpose. 
