82 
AMERICAN KITCHEN GARDENER. 
Bown too late, the plants do not acquire sufficient strength before winter to 
withstand its rigor, without extraordinary care. But in either case there is 
a remedy; that is, if the plants are likely to become too luxuriant and 
strong, transplant them once or twice in October, and if too backward and 
weakly, make a slight hot-bed towards the latter end of that month, and 
prick them out of the seed-bed thereon; this will forward them consider¬ 
ably.” 
Mr. M 4 Mahon thinks that, in the Eastern States,-the fore part of Septem¬ 
ber will be a suitable time to sow cabbages intended to be grown the suc¬ 
ceeding summer. The seeds should be covered about a quarter of an inch 
deep, and, if the weather prove dry, should be watered occasionally in the 
evening till they come up. According to Abercrombie’s seed estimate, u for 
a seed-bed to raise the early York and similar varieties, four feet wide by 
twenty in length,” two ounces will be required ; for a seed-bed to raise the 
large sugarloaf, and other luxuriant growers, four feet by thirty-six in 
length, two ounces. The same writer directs to u sow at three different sea¬ 
sons, that is, spring, summer and autumn, and cover from an eighth to a 
quarter of an inch. Under a deficiency of winter standing young plants for 
final transplanting, or in order to have some spring sown plants as forward as 
possible, a moderate portion of some best early sorts may be sown between 
the middle of February and the middle of March, in a slight hot-bed or 
frame, to nurture the plants till the leaves are an inch or two in length. 
Then prick them into intermediate beds in the open garden, there to gain 
strength for final transplanting.” 
Planting in New England .—“ Some drop the seeds where the cabbages 
are to grow. By this they escape being stinted by transplanting; for win¬ 
ter cabbages, the latter part of May is early enough to put the seed into the 
ground, whether the plants are to be removed or not. I have tried both 
ways, and on the whole, I prefer transplanting They are otherwise apt to 
be too tall, and to have crooked stems. Covering plants with leaves is not 
a good practice. They will be much heated through some sorts of leaves, 
the free circulation of air about them will be prevented, and their perspira¬ 
tion partly obstructed. If a hot sun cause them to droop, a shingle stuck 
into the ground will be sufficient shelter, if it be on the south side of the 
plants. I commonly allow each plant two shingles, one on the south-east 
side, and one on the south-west, meeting at the south corner.”— Peane. 
The act of planting should be performed carefully. Holes, of sufficient 
depth and width, should be dibbled, for the smaller sorts of cabbages at the 
distance of two feet and a half, and, for the larger sort, of three feet every 
way. In these the earth should be placed up to the !ower leaves, and the 
eaith brought closely about the roots, which is best done by pushing down 
tne dibbler, at a small angle with the plant, and then bringing it up to it with 
