PRUNING. 
G6 
When the space gets filled, you must continue cutting out, from year 
(.o year, all thin, spindley shoots, and spare the strong ones, so that the 
stongest eyes only are developed, instead of all of them; and the Roses 
are closely set to their wall or trellis, instead of hanging lolloping 
about; the very thing which is good on a pillar, or an arbor, or over 
an archway, or on festoons, being the reverse on a fiat surface. As a 
never-failing operation, however, in all cases, the weak, spindley shoots 
may always be removed, whether the strong wood be shortened or 
not. 
Pruning of Standards on Their O wn Bottoms, or Boots. 
It is very common to see among Dwarf or Bush Roses, a strong 
shoot growing upright, a sucker from the root; and it is frequently 
the case that these will rise up to five or six feet high. In the Moss 
Roses, this is often to be found. These may always be trained into 
standard trees, with heads in every way proportioned to the stem. 
As soon as a vigorous shoot of this kind makes its appearance, cut in 
the bush at bottom rather hard, as it will tend to strengthen the root, 
which will be relieved of some of its work by the operation. When 
the shoot has attained the required height, pinch off the top ; this will 
encourage side shoots, all of which, except the two or three at the top, 
must be rubbed off. It rarely occurs, however, that any side giowth 
is made the first season; so that the better way, unless the shoot be 
getting too long early in the season, is to let it ripen its wood. ' The 
latter part of the autumn, you may look at the root, to see what state 
it is in, and how far it may be dependent on the main root. If it be 
closely joined, so that there would not be sufficient root if separated, 
the old bush must be sacrificed, and the root secured for the standard. 
As the upper part of the shoot may not be well ripened, it will be as 
well to bind a hay band round it, or tie some moss or other jitter, to 
save it from sharp frost, though moderate ones will not injure. 
In the spring, cut the end off as low down as will do for your pur¬ 
pose, and when the buds shoot out, it will be seen that the three or 
four upper ones come first; all others on the stem must be rubbed off. 
"Nor is it any great use .having two buds on the same side of the tree; 
I you can manage to have three, or even four, within a few inches of 
ihe top, "oin fing different ways, they will form the better hold of it, to 
