7 S 
House & Garden 
Imyrvwd European Jilberts, 
The Only Thing of the Kind 
in the United States 
A Great Nut Delicacy, Big, Meaty Filberts, 
(Hazel Nuts) Grow them in your own Garden 
F OR years we had enquiries for an Improved 
Filbert as grown in Europe, and in 1912 we 
imported a selection of the finest European 
Varieties of Filberts that bore abundantly as 
far North as Riga, Russia, and obtained a 
European Nut Expert to begin experiments here. 
Success crowned his efforts and we now offer 
Our Pedigreed Varieties of European Filberts, 
marking a great advance in Nut Culture in 
America. 
These Filbert Bushes Combine Beauty 
with Profit 
They make handsome shrubs for the lawn and 
have an important place in ornamental landscape plantings. 
Set out along the edges of walks or drives they will soon rival 
the celebrated Nut Borders of European Gardens. 
Plants bear the second or third year after planting 
and at the tenth year yield 20 to 25 pounds per bush. 
Thrive in any moderately rich, well drained soil, with very 
little cultivation and succeed over a wide range of territory 
and latitude. Are HARDY and ADAPTED TO THE MORE 
NORTHERN STATES where other kinds of Nut Trees will not 
fruit successfully. 
Customers in practically every State report Complete Satis¬ 
faction with these plants. Dr. E. P. Horiue of Louisville, Ky., 
writes: 
“The trees which 1 purchased from you last full were quite 
satisfactory and have made excellent growth. Particularly was / 
impressed with your Improved Filberts, as more than half the 
trees bore from one to six nuts this first fall after planting. 
Kindly quote prices in dozen lots on your Improved Filberts.’’ 
Write for FREE CATALOG telling all about these Improved 
European Filberts and our Complete Assortment of FRUIT and 
ORNAMENTAL TREES, SHRUBS, ROSES, BERRY PLANTS, 
etc. 
L. W. HALL COMPANY, Inc. 
America’s Exclusive Producers of Improved European 
Filberts 
461 Cutler Bldg., Rochester, N. Y. 
^■ ^SplendidMirsery Stock of all kinds 
Charm to Baffle Time 
Whoso seeks roof and side wall beauty with colors and wear that 
baffle the ravages of time and weather, specifies “ CREO-DIPT ” 
Stained Shingles. 
On this home Architects Chatten &. Hammond have created a charm¬ 
ing and delightful effect by using the large 24-inch “ CREO-DIPT ” 
Stained Shingles for the wide shingle exposure on side walls, in a 
soft shade of silver gray. The silver gray stain is beautiful in color 
effect with the variegated green “ CREO-DIPT ” Stained Shingle 
roof. 
Send today for portfolio of fifty homes by promi- 
nent architects, as well as color samples. Ask about 
“CREO-DIPT” Thatched Roofs, and 24-inch Dixie 
White side walls for the true Colonial White effect. 
**Oeo-TVpV' St^lnpd Shin^lo roof 
ami skle walls. Home of M. R. 
Sliumway, Rockford. Ill. Archts., 
Chattel! & Hammond, Chicago. 
C(RII©-l§>D[Fir CORfllPAKlY,, Dm©. 
1012 Oliver Street, North Tonawanda, N. Y. * ^ 
f 4V / 
Portfolio 
of Homes 
CREO-DIPT 
Stained Shingles 
A Separate Bed for Cut-Flower Roses 
R OSE lovers who heretofore have 
confined their attention to gen- 
‘ eral-purpose roses, cutting their 
house flowers from plants used for lawn 
or border ornamentation, or for covers 
for arbors, should find it desirable to 
plant a special rose garden for cut 
flowers. This is practically the only 
plan that will result in the production 
of blossoms of highest quality. A 
separate garden plot is desirable for 
roses for cutting because such plants 
require special care and attention and 
need more room and cultivation than 
roses adapted to border planting. Their 
segregation in a bed of their own also 
facilitates treatment for insects and 
fungus attacks. 
Varieties 
There are a multitude of varieties of 
roses of different hues available for use 
in a cut-flower garden, so that every 
rose gardener should be able to find 
some to please him. The principal 
groups of these are: Hybrid perpetual, 
teas, hybrid teas, Bengals, Bourbons and 
Chinas. 
The hybrid perpetuals are the hardi¬ 
est of the cut-flower roses and-are the 
only ones to be relied upon in the 
colder parts of the country and in the 
rural districts of the dry-land region. 
They usually bloom only in the early 
summer, but sometimes bloom a second 
time if thoroughly pruned, especially 
if given a midsummer check by dry 
weather. In the warmer sections, with 
plenty of moisture, the hybrid teas 
are more desirable. When properly 
treated, the latter bloom from spring 
until cold weather. They will succeed 
on the southern portions of the Great 
Plains if they can be irrigated, but are 
not adapted to the sections of that 
region where irrigation is not available. 
Tea roses are more tender than hy¬ 
brid teas. Although some of them are 
weak growers, they are most attrac¬ 
tive. They succeed well in the South 
Atlantic and Gulf States and on the 
Pacific coast. These and the hybrid 
teas provide the most satisfactory roses 
in the regions where they succeed. 
The China or Bengal rose is one of 
the forms from which a great many of 
the garden roses have been developed. 
But few of these varieties are now of¬ 
fered by nurserymen. 
The Bourbon rose is best known 
through the variety Souvenir de la 
Malmaison, which in hardiness com¬ 
pares favorably with the hybrid teas. 
There also are other varieties. 
The selection of varieties is best made 
after consultation with near-by grow¬ 
ers or nurserymen who are most famil¬ 
iar with local conditions. The larger 
rose-growing firms are also in a position 
to make reasonably safe suggestions for 
any region if given full information as 
to location, exposure, kind of soil, and 
other local factors. 
Roses adapted to culture for cut 
flowers, the gardener will find, show 
most plainly the results of the long 
period through which roses have been 
selected and bred. Greater specializa¬ 
tion in methods of treatment also will 
be found here than among other types 
of flowers. Plants may be had from 
nurseries in “own root,” “budded,” or 
“grafted” form. 
The advantage of grafted and budded 
roses is that they are more vigorous 
the first few years, but they have to 
be watched closely to prevent shoots 
starting from the stock, as such shoots 
take the sap and thus starve the scion. 
The expert who constantly can watch 
his plants may be successful with grafted 
and budded roses, but the average 
grower would do best to use own- 
rooted plants, even though they do not 
grow so fast. The few varieties that 
succeed only when grafted should not 
be tried until the grower has become 
expert in handling roses. Climbing 
roses are grafted less often than hy¬ 
brid perpetuals, hybrid teas, and teas. 
Plants are propagated under glass 
and in the field. The field-grown plants 
are usually rather more robust and 
more likely to withstand adverse con¬ 
ditions. 
The size or age of the plant to use 
is largely a matter of choice. They are 
offered in various sizes, from 1 to 3 
years. The plants from cuttings are 
smaller than the other plants of the 
same age and variety. Three-year-old 
plants give the quickest results. Two- 
year-old plants can be transplanted 
more successfully than older ones and 
are rather more satisfactory. One-year- 
old plants have to be grown for a year 
before any real results are obtained in 
the way of bloom. The first year the 
flower buds should be picked from 
this small size as soon as formed, to 
let all the strength go into growth. 
Soil, Drainage and Fertilizer 
Cut-flower roses thrive in a well- 
drained soil that is not too dry and 
is well supplied with organic matter. 
The hybrid perpetuals succeed best in 
clay loam or in a soil with a clay sub¬ 
soil. They do not succeed so well in 
gravel soils. Many of the tea roses 
and their hybrids succeed in very light 
lands if well supplied with organic mat¬ 
ter and water, although the ideal soil 
is a loamy one. A well-enriched soil 
and one reasonably constant in its abil¬ 
ity to supply the plant with moisture 
is the chief requirement. On the other 
hand, it must be well drained, as roses 
will not grow when water stands about 
their roots. 
In heavy clay soils or wherever water 
is liable to stand, it is desirable to pro¬ 
vide artificial drainage. This is best 
done by excavating to a depth of 3 
feet, placing a 12-inch layer of stones in 
the bottom, covering these with inverted 
sods, and then refilling the bed with 
well-prepared soil. This layer of drain¬ 
age should be connected with some 
proper outlet for carrying off the 
water. A drain of a similar layer of 
stones, 1 foot or more wide, or a tile, 
should lead to some main drain, a 
sewer, or to an opening on lower land, 
so that surplus water will be carried 
away immediately. In well-drained 
soils such special precaution is not nec¬ 
essary. Sometimes the layer of stones 
without the outlet drain will be suf¬ 
ficient. 
Archibald Rutledge. 
