76 
House & Garden 
Is Your Home Cheerful? 
[AO YOUR family and guests 
enjoy the freshness of white 
radiant rooms? 
Do you feel the satisfaction that 
comes from knowing that your 
home is imaculately fresh and 
beautiful? 
If your woodwork and furniture are 
to look right and wear right, they 
must be enameled. 
But ordinary enamel will not do. 
For perfect whiteness and per¬ 
manency, you must use Enamolin. 
Indoors — Enamolin is practically 
indestructible. Outdoors —it wears 
for years. 
It will not peel, chip or crack. 
Wash it like china. Soap or 
sapolio merely renew its freshness. 
As for economy — Enamolin costs 
less to use. Long after ordinary 
paint or enamel is worn and needs 
renewing, Enamolin’s fresh white¬ 
ness still delights the eye. 
NAMLAC FLOOR FINISH will make your 
floors handsome and keep them so. It is 
a clear varnish which really protects hard¬ 
wood. painted and linoleum-covered floors. 
Of course, Namlac Floor Finish is “water¬ 
proof, mar-proof and scratch-proof.” 
1()OWilIiam St XewAork 
Ask for “THE WHITE 
SPOT BOOKLET.” A 
sample can of either 
Enamolin or Namlac 
Floor Finish sent for 10 
cents. Address Home 
Department. 
fnamo/m 
The War Garden Department 
( Continued, from page 74) 
t ally cut out of tire centers to avoid over- 
i crowding. We may put it down as a 
rule, however, “the less pruning the 
better,” especially where shrubs are 
planted in a mixed border. Individual 
specimens may need a little more looking 
after to keep them in symmetrical shape. 
Using Lime and Starting Seedlings 
The first requirement of most soils, to 
enable them to produce bigger crops, is 
lime. Of course, you have seen this 
statement before—but have you used the 
lime yet? Perhaps you have had the 
opinion, which many people seem to 
hold, that its application is a compli¬ 
cated matter, and quite expensive. On 
the contrary, by using ground raw lime¬ 
stone, which is the best form for most 
conditions, it is easier and safer to 
apply than any commercial fertilizer. 
! You can put it on just before planting 
' without any danger of injury to most 
vegetables, but, of course, the longer it 
is on before planting, the more good it 
will be to the first crop that follows. 
There is a new fertilizer material on the 
market called barium phosphate, which 
is claimed to combine the good qualities 
of lime and acid phosphate, besides sup¬ 
plying sulphur, which is one of the sev¬ 
eral plant foods—like nitrogen, phos¬ 
phoric acid and potash—which we have 
not heard so much about. 
One of the biggest garden helps, and 
one of the best ways of helping to con¬ 
serve the very short supply of seeds, is 
to start plants for transplanting later 
in a seed border. No frames are neces¬ 
sary, although if one has them avail¬ 
able the seed may be sown still earlier. 
A warm, sheltered spot, however, where 
the soil can be made rich and fine and 
is thoroughly drained, and protected 
from dripping eaves above, will give 
plants ten days or two weeks earlier, 
even without any glass, than they could 
be had by planting directly in the flower 
or vegetable garden. The main factor 
in getting good plants by this method 
is to give them plenty of room while 
growing; and in the case of most flowers, 
where a stocky, well branched plant is 
desirable, to pinch out the top when 
the seedling is well started. 
If you have vegetable plants, and bed¬ 
ding plants for the flower beds, coming 
along in the greenhouse now, they must 
be watched carefully. It is well to get 
the larger plants out into the frames 
as rapidly as possible; they will not 
grow so fast there, but their growth will 
be much stronger and hardier. The 
result will be that when they are set in 
the open they will forge ahead of the 
much larger plants that have been kept 
in the greenhouse until time for setting 
out of' doors. But whether inside or out, 
great care must be taken from now on 
never to let the flats or pots dry out, 
as they will do very quickly if neglected 
for a day, under glass, in sunny weather. 
Make it an absolute rule to water just 
as regularly as conditions will allow, 
even if you occasionally have to let some 
new work outside wait in order to do 
it. Regularity in this matter is of the 
greatest importance; going from one ex¬ 
treme to the other is very bad for the 
plants, even if they are not stunted out¬ 
right by drying out. 
Planting New Stock 
Before you have absolutely closed your 
planting plans for the spring, don’t for¬ 
get that this is your last chance for 
putting in trees or deciduous shrubs for 
another six months—and that means for 
practically a whole year, as they will not 
make much growth if set out in the fall. 
Shrubs and trees offer not only beauty 
and comfort for the members of your 
household, but make the most rapidly 
appreciating small investment, in the 
actual value of the place, that you could 
possibly make. 
A Small Concrete Garden Pool 
F EW indeed are the gardens where 
some sort of water feature is impos¬ 
sible. Even on an almost literally 
“two by four” plot one can, with a little 
ingenuity, arrange for a pool large enough 
for a few water plants, perhaps two or 
three water lily bulbs, or a surrounding 
cluster of iris, cardinal flowers or feath¬ 
ery grasses. More than one such pool 
of a yard in width has been made to add 
in no small measure to the garden pleas¬ 
ure of its owner. 
In its simplest form, the garden pool 
is merely an excavation of suitable size, 
lined with concrete to prevent leakage, 
and fitted with inlet and outlet pipes for 
the water. Whether the effect shall be 
formal or informal depends equally upon 
the lines of the original structure and the 
manner in which the planting around it 
is carried out. 
First, then, you will need the excava¬ 
tion. This may be circular, if you wish, 
or square or rectangular. The latter 
shapes will be somewhat easier of con¬ 
struction, because it will be simpler to 
fit them with the board forms into which 
the concrete must be poured. When the 
earth has been dug out to the desired 
depth and width, put in the water sup¬ 
ply pipe, which should connect with the 
regular house system and open into the 
center of the proposed pool. If you wish 
some sort of fountain effect, put an el¬ 
bow in the pipe at the center of the 
pool, extending upward so that, when 
a nozzle has been fitted on, it will come 
to or slightly above the permanent level 
of the water. If the piping is intended 
merely as a source of water supply, 
without any attempt at a fountain or 
spray, this elbow extension need be only 
long enough to reach an inch or so 
above the concrete bottom of the pool, 
with the soil for plants added. 
Mixing the concrete is not a difficult 
matter. Take a few boards as a mixing 
floor, and on them spread a layer of clean 
sand and then a layer of dry cement, in 
the proportion of two parts of cement 
to five of sand. Mix the two thorough¬ 
ly with a shovel or hoe. Then add nine 
parts of broken stone, old bricks or 
gravel, mix again dry, and then knead 
the whole thing thoroughly, using just 
enough water to make the different in¬ 
gredients adhere so that when the con¬ 
crete is tamped down there will be a 
little water standing on the surface. 
The floor of the pool should be laid 
first. Put the concrete in from 2" to 6" 
thick, depending on the size of the area. 
Then set in the board forms for the 
sides, so that there will be a space be¬ 
tween them and the earth which, when 
filled with concrete, will form die walls 
of the pool. The outlet pipe must of 
course be put in at this stage. Place it 
at the height at which you wish the 
water to stand permanently, and see 
that it has some definite place into 
which to drain—either an underground 
pipe or a little stream trickling away 
through the garden. The board forms 
are removed when the concrete has har¬ 
dened thoroughly. 
