...Hill 
50 
House & Garden 
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Jttantels 
Early 19th Century folantel with Hob Grate 
Choice Reproductions in Wood and Marble ol tKe 
Early English and Colonial Pe iods 
FIREPLACE ACCESSORIES 
AN EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF INTERESTING DESIGNS 
| TKe English HoK Grate is practical and economical in use and most 
attractive in appearance 
Illustrations u j) o n request 
ARTHUR TODHUNTER 10 L P w a YcA ve - 
..... 
Mac Bride 
Interior Decoration 
Furniture 
ANCIENT POLYCHROMED IRON WORK 
LAMP STANDS $45.00 AND $55.00 BENCH $100.00 
THE “ HOUSE OF THREE GABLES ” 
3 East 32nd Street, New York 
A Score of Best Roses—and a Few Over 
(''Continued from page 48) 
sometimes makes them “ball” or grow 
soggy until they cannot open. And its 
color is so delicately lovely that it hardly 
seems it can be true! 
Another rose of extremely delicate 
color is the Viscountess Folkestone, 
which has full flowers suggesting the 
peony, cream-flesh in color. They will 
develop to very great size with a little 
thinning of the buds; but without such 
thinning they are large enough to meet 
the usual standards. This rose is par¬ 
ticularly lovely in the fall, though it 
blooms all summer with delightful per¬ 
sistence. Its fragrance is delicious. 
Several Special Classes 
Of the Tea roses, in addition to the 
Harry Kirk already mentioned, an old- 
time variety that is still a prime favorite 
is Marie Van Houtte. The general 
color of this is a pale yellow, overlaid 
with white, while the edges of the petals 
a>re frequently touched with a bright 
pink or rose color. 
One of the very finest roses for late 
summer and fall bloom is unfortunately 
one of the most tender; hence its de¬ 
mands for winter protection are impera¬ 
tive. Given such care as it should have, 
however, and the William R. Smith will 
reward you with such masses of peach- 
pink flowers as will more than repay 
the efforts made in its behalf; and it 
will keep on blooming until frost 
stops it. 
Of the Bengal roses, Hermosa is per¬ 
haps the most used at the present time. 
It is an old-fashioned, little, bright pink, 
double flower, blooming all the time. 
Mass this in beds apart from the H. 
P.'s, the H. T.’s and the Teas, and have 
a good number of plants if you wish to 
carry on the bloom throughout August. 
Countess de Cayla is another of this 
class, richer in color than Hermosa—a 
coppery tone shaded with orange g.nd 
altogether very brilliant. 
One of the sweetest and dearest of 
roses is the blushing Clotilde Soupert, 
a densely petalled Polyantha hybrid, 
generally classed as white, but having a 
most ravishing warmth at the heart. 
The flowers are in clusters at the ends 
of the branches, and a bed of twenty- 
five or more is a delight all summer. 
Then there are Louise Walter, a large- 
clustered rose of soft pink, flowering 
throughout the season; Orleans, which 
has good-sized flowers red as geraniums, 
with white at their centers; and Yvonne 
Rabier, the baby white rambler, of pro¬ 
fuse bloom. 
In addition to these varieties of the 
special rose garden types, there are a 
few suited to the shrubbery border or 
to such use as massing in hedgerows or 
as isolated specimens, where the land¬ 
scape demands some marked feature. 
One of these is a hybrid rugosa, which 
has full flowers suggesting in the bud 
the La France roses—a large, strong 
growing bush which blooms early, Con¬ 
rad F. Meyer by name. Used as a 
hedge it is a marvel of beauty. Set the 
plants 2' apart, in planting it for this 
purpose. 
Moss roses are indispensable, but 
many of them are so subject to mildew 
that they are an eyesore most of the 
time. This is not true of the Crested 
Moss, however, an old-fashioned, fra¬ 
grant, very “mossy” deep pink rose that 
is often found in old dooryards. Every 
garden that aspires to be old-fashioned 
ought to have at least one of these, 
whether it is a rose garden or not. 
Of climbing roses there are four of 
preeminent value, and a fifth that all 
lovers of yellow roses should have. The 
first is the Climbing American Beauty, 
whose name is misleading inasmuch as 
it is not an American Beauty in climb¬ 
ing form, although it is related to this 
surpassingly lovely rose and has the 
characteristic fragrance. It is of the 
H. P. type, in that it blooms only 
through June. Dorothy Perkins is too 
well known to need more than a men¬ 
tion; I doubt if it will ever be excelled 
in a pink climber. Excelsa is not so 
well known yet, though the fact that it 
cannot be distinguished from a Crimson 
Rambler makes it seem so. The out¬ 
standing feature that sets it quite apart 
and above the Crimson Rambler is its 
foliage, which is always beautiful and 
fresh and shining, and free from mildew 
or other disease. This is owing to its 
Wichuraiana parentage, which is always 
a desirable ancestry in a climbing rose. 
Then there are the climbing Kaiserin 
Augusta Victoria, like its bush proto¬ 
type in all particulars; and the latest 
addition to the yellow rambler class, 
Aviateur Bleriot. This, too, is a de¬ 
scendant of the splendid Wichuraiana, 
and shows the characteristic glossy, re¬ 
sistant foliage. 
Making A Rose Garden 
Put the rose garden where the first 
sun of the day will not reach it; sun¬ 
light from ten o’clock on is ample, and 
actually better than sunlight all of the 
day. Of course there should be no trees 
near enough to take the nourishment 
from the soil, nor to drip on the rose 
bushes from above. Actually a distance 
of 10' feet away from the outermost 
branches’ spread is usually enough, pro¬ 
viding the trees have attained their full 
growth. Roses like a heavy soil better 
than a light one. 
Use cow manure if it is obtainable; 
horse manure is_ more heating and 
should be two years old, if possible, be¬ 
fore using. Chicken manure is good. 
Whatever kind may be available, be 
sure that it is mixed thoroughly with 
the soil and none allowed to lie in lumps 
either on the surface of the bed or be¬ 
neath it. Bone meal is an excellent ex¬ 
tra ration, to be applied to the surface 
of the ground after it is well worked, at 
the rate of about a cupful to a plant; 
and air-slaked lime in the same propor¬ 
tion should be used in the spring and 
again around the first of August, not 
only to sweeten the soil but to release 
plant food that may be unavailable 
without its aid. 
Rose beds should be dug out to a 
depth of 15", and the soil taken from 
them mixed with one-fourth its bulk 
of manure, after being thoroughly pul¬ 
verized, and returned to the excavated 
space. If drainage is not good, dig this 
out still deeper—8" to 10" would be 
enough—and put in 6" of coarse gravel, 
stones, cinders, etc.; then cover with 
ashes to a depth of 2"; and then restore 
the earth in which the plants will stand. 
Set Hybrid Teas and Teas 20" apart, 
Hybrid Perpetuals 30"; and let the 
point of junction between the root stock 
and the top be 2" below the surface, 
unless you are handling the cheaply 
grown material that is grafted high on 
the stem. With the last, spread the 
roots out evenly, sift the fine soil around 
them and press it firmly down, water 
just once to settle it, and prune back 
two-thirds of the length of the branches, 
unless they are already cut back half¬ 
way. The point is to leave about 6" 
to 8" of old stem above ground. 
After the rose garden is established, 
cut everything back annually in the late 
fall, to a height of about 3'. Then wait 
until early spring, before growth starts, 
when the regular pruning should be 
done. This has to do mostly with wood 
of the previous summer’s growth, and 
leaves the older wood alone except where 
it is dead. Cut back the weak last 
summer’s wood to a height of from 3' 
to 6", cut out the very weak alto¬ 
gether, and cut the strong branches to 
about 8" once more—just as at the time 
of planting. The old wood is always 
rough and woody in appearance; last 
year’s wood is lighter in color and d : °- 
tinctly green and smooth. 
