House & Garden 
USEFUL XMAS 
PRESENTS 
Booklet “Gift Suggestions 
No. 20’’ Sent on Request 
Ladies' Fancy Handkerchiefs 
48. Real Val Lace, 6 for $21.00 
52. Swiss Openstitch edge, 
6 for $21.00 
53 Swiss Openstitch edge, 
6 for $24.00 
45. Fancy Stitch, Linen, 
6 for $9.00 
49. Real Armenian Lace, 
6 for $21.00 
20. Pure Linen Hand Embroidered 
Corner Handkerchiefs, ribboned 
and boxed, 6 for $5.00 
11. Ladies' Pure Linen Cambric Initial Handkerchiefs, 6 for $ 3.00 
12 Ladies' Pure Linen Cambric Initial Handkerchiefs, 6 for 4.50 
15. Ladies' Pure Linen Initial Handk'fs, Swiss Embroidery, 6 for 15.00 
139. “Marjorie" Set in Real Irish Lace, for wearing with Dresses ^or 
140. Han'd'ml’de Organdie Set trimmed Real Val. rfrrickma 
141. Beautiful Modiste Veste Collar and Cuffs, made of 
Cross Lace and Net, ^ 
¥alpoi£ Bros. 
(Continued jrom page 35) 
lar, it is expensive if properly done, 
and a very dubious process if not well 
done, so that the best way to guard 
against the entrance of water is to 
lead it away from the house by a 
drain around the foundation before it 
has a chance to work through the cellar 
walls or up through the cellar bottoms. 
The drain must, of course, have an out¬ 
let lower than the cellar of the house 
itself, a thing easily provided in a hilly 
community where the lot is higher than 
the street, but in a flat country a way 
to dispose of it is often not so readily 
to be found”. But I think the consen¬ 
sus of opinion seems to be that it is 
better to waterproof cellar and walls 
than to drain, because a drain pipe 
must connect with the sewerage system 
and in case anything happens in the 
way of a stoppage, no matter how far 
removed from the house the sewage is, 
it is bound to back up through the 
drain and thus out into the cellar. Of 
course it is possible to drain through 
what is called a “dry well”, but if your 
cellar excavation is below the water line 
your “dry well” will become water 
soaked in case of severe storms, and the 
drainage will return to the cellar. In 
this case there would not be the danger 
of sewage but it would mean dampness 
and disintegration. 
But the surest method of obtaining 
the absolutely dry cellar is to make 
your foundation walls and cellar floor 
waterproof. This is more expensive 
than draining with pipes, but there are 
very good architects and builders who 
feel that it is the only sure way to 
build for health, and that is, in the 
long run of course, economy. 
Cellar Walls 
Unless you want an exceptional 
amount of light in your cellar do not 
have the foundation wall over 6" above 
the ground, and even with 6" a good 
deal of light can be furnished by build¬ 
ing areas in the wall at certain intervals. 
The amount of excavation for the cellar 
will depend upon the space needed. If 
you wish a laundry, preserve closet, 
heating equipment and storage for coal, 
vegetables, etc., you will need a good 
deal of space, and you must dig deep 
enough to have ample head room for 
safety and comfort. Also your lighting 
and plumbing equipment must all start 
in the cellar, and the ash chutes coming 
from the kitchen stove and your open 
fires must have a dumping place in the 
cellar. 
To insure complete insulation against 
a damp cellar first lay cinders 6 
or 8" deep and let this project either 
side of the foundation wall about 6". 
In the case of any danger from the 
seeping in of water a concrete floor 
should be laid over this and then a 
waterproof surface which consists of 
layers of tarred felt and between each 
layer a coat of tar pitch. The first 
layer of felt is mopped to the concrete 
floor and side walls with tar pitch. All 
of this is finished with a course of 
cement completely covering the floor 
and curving up on the walls as high as 
there is any danger of water seeping 
through. 
Your foundation wall must also be 
laid on a T footing. This footing is 
usually of stone laid up with mortar 
joints or a trench perhaps dug and 
slushed solid with concrete. The con¬ 
crete must be thoroughly rammed in 
the trench to avoid water seeping in 
around the gravel and making the walls 
porous. If the walls are of stone or 
brick they must be so bonded that the 
joints do not come together and allow 
the footing to crack under the strain of 
the weight which it supports. If the 
various courses of brick or stone are 
not bonded together properly the walls 
will split vertically and not only permit 
dampness to enter, but there is danger 
of the walls settling. Of course the 
thickness of your foundation wall must 
depend upon the weight it is to carp', 
and this the builder can decide with 
mathematical certainty. Brick or stone 
are equally satisfactory on the ground 
that has been properly drained. If 
brick, it should be of the well burnt 
variety. 
If the walls are brick, two coats of 
whitewash will give you a clean fresh 
surface; if stone, it is better to cover 
with cement, pure white—and, of course, 
the ceiling would be white cement—for 
hygienic as well as aesthetic reasons. 
(Continued on page 74) 
Cross Jection of Foundation tda// 
Floorjo/st 
Graot 
sA 
. K2 
rame 
V/ati 
Ziar/tC ■ ‘ 
Qe/larfloor 
oom 
'Ji-fth Five. cor. -3.5 SiZKevOorF 
Plan cf Fred 
ross-section and plan of foun- 
ition wall and area, showing 
linnnt i It O 4 Ft Fit 1*10 
