50 
The W Irvind Tbrde Jive 
No's. 326 ao\d 328 Ea,$i 38tk Sir eel, New York City. 
Period 
A.ppoirvimer\is 
l\ki\d wrondht 
in. melSl 
Telephone Murray Hill 8536 
He Who Plants Peonies 
Plants a Whole Garden 
Of all the perennials growing in American gardens none 
seem to be more adaptable than Peonies. This fall you can 
safely plant 
Harris’ Prize-winning Peonies 
with the utmost confidence in their ability to come through 
with bloom next year. Our superb collections contain the 
widest variety of forms and color. That the stock is healthy 
and true to name is attested by the fact that July 3rd we 
booked an order from an old customer for 1500 roots for Sep¬ 
tember delivery. 
New catalogue, illustrated from our own fields, tells the whole story of 
prices, discounts, etc.; our large stock enables us to keep prices as low as 
high-grade stock can be offered. The catalogue also lists Iris, Phlox, and 
other hardy plants for August and September planting. 
Evergreens for August Planting 
Rosedale Nurseries make a specialty of extra fine specimen Evergreens; the 
stock includes seventy varieties adapted to all uses, and in such a range of 
sizes that specimens may be selected for any effect desired. Planting now 
means economy, for all these trees will increase in value from year to year. 
Our special Evergreen booklet mailed on request; write today. 
Rosedale Nurseries, s * 
Box H. Tarrytown, N. Y. 
House & Garden 
The Uses, Choice and Planting of Evergreens 
(Continued from page 48) 
circumstances in country or suburbs. 
Shelter and at least partial shade in 
winter are desirable. It is not so much 
the cold which kills as it is the excessive 
evaporation of moisture from the leaves, 
which the frozen roots have no power 
to replace. The alternate freezing and 
thawing of a sunny situation is also very 
bad for them. If sheltered from the 
strong winds, the moisture-laden air and 
tempered climate of the coast is an ideal 
environment. If necessary they may be 
protected by pine boughs stuck lightly 
in the ground around them. 
For setting out evergreens, two seasons 
are recommended: first, in May, just be¬ 
fore the young growth starts; and again 
in late August or early September, in 
time to allow the plants to become fully 
established before winter. In either case 
plentiful watering is essential. Those 
set out in the spring should be soaked 
thoroughly (not merely sprinkled) at 
weekly intervals throughout the entire 
summer. Those planted in the fall need 
particular care at the time of setting out, 
for the ground is often very dry at that 
season. They should also receive fre¬ 
quent soakings for some time. It is best 
to puncture the ball of earth with a 
sharp stick in several places to allow 
the moisture to penetrate. 
The soil preparation should consist of 
good loam two feet deep, one-fourth of 
it to be leaf mould if procurable. Con¬ 
trary to the popular opinion, manure 
may be used for evergreens, but it must 
be well decayed. 
Because of their resinous nature, any 
drying out of the roots is fatal. In 
ordering from a nursery, specify that 
they shall come packed in burlap balls. 
The roots must not be exposed to the air 
at any time during the process of setting 
out, and if it is necessary to delay plant¬ 
ing for a few days after arrival, water 
and bury the roots in the ground with¬ 
out removing the burlap. 
The accompanying plans and lists 
show appropriate uses and comparative 
costs for some of the most satisfactory 
evergreens. They are as a class slower 
growing and therefore more expensive 
than deciduous plants of a like size. 
The cost, however, can be reduced by 
the selection of the less expensive va¬ 
rieties, which are happily the kinds most 
effective and easily grown; by the pur¬ 
chase of the smaller sizes in sufficiently 
large quantities to secure a discount; 
and by the introduction of a certain 
amount of deciduous planting. In these 
lists, only a few of the hardiest and most 
durable kinds have been suggested, 
though many others might easily have 
been included. In fact, so numerous are 
the varieties of evergreens, that the only 
way to avoid confusion and spottiness in 
planting is to use a few of them in a 
restrained way. 
The War Garden Department 
(Continued from page 43) 
successfully made in the heating of small 
vegetable houses by the use of kerosene 
stoves, further details of which will be 
gladly furnished by House & Garden. 
Preserving Notes 
August is one of the important pre¬ 
serving months. Many different things 
can be put up now, suggestions for 
some of which follow: 
For canning vegetables follow the di¬ 
rections for cold pack canning or for in¬ 
termittent sterilization already given. 
For fruits, the cold pack, open kettle or 
steaming method is best. 
To make preserves, marmalades and 
conserves follow the usual rule, namely: 
allow 1 pound of fruit to 24 pound of 
sugar. Mix sugar with the fruit and let 
stand overnight to extract the juice. 
Add juice and rind of oranges or lemons, 
or both, and raisins or nuts to the fruit 
to be made into conserves. Boil slowly, 
stirring often until thick. Seal same as 
jelly. Three oranges, 1 lemon (juice 
and rind) to 4 pounds of fruit is the 
right proportion. 
Fruits in August suitable for pre¬ 
serves, marmalades, conserves, etc., are 
apricots, damson plums, pears, quince 
and apple, green gage, grapes, peaches, 
yellow tomatoes. 
Fruit Butters and Honey 
Wash fruit but do not peel. Put into 
a granite kettle and add just enough 
water to keep fruit from scorching. 
Stew fruit until it is tender. Then rub 
through a fruit press, and to the pulp 
add enough sugar to sweeten. (Differ¬ 
ent fruits need different amounts of 
sugar.) Butters burn readily and there¬ 
fore care must be taken in cooking them. 
They should be sealed while hot. Ap¬ 
ples should be cooked in cider. Peach 
butter is best without the addition of 
spices. To pumpkin, pie-plant, pear, 
grape and crabapple butter add 1 tea¬ 
spoon each of cinnamon and cloves to 
every 3 cups of pulp used. 
For honey use hard pears, quinces or 
a combination of quince and apple, or 
parsley. Wash and grate fruit. To 
each quart of grated pulp add 1 cup 
sugar. Boil slowly until fruit is soft 
and the honey of marmalade consist¬ 
ency. Skim as scum forms. 
For parsley honey follow directions 
for jelly making, boiling parsley lj4 
hours with enough water to cover. 
Strain juice through cloth. Allow 24- 
cup sugar to 1 cup juice and boil until 
honey consistency is reached. Seal honey 
while hot. 
Any fruit juice with an insufficient 
amount of pectin for good jelly making 
will make honey that can be used in the 
winter on pancakes and waffles. Honey 
is good at any time for sweetening and 
flavoring pudding sauces and frozen 
desserts. 
Miscellaneous 
Vinegar: For vinegar making use 
rhubarb juice, apple cider, extract of 
clover blossoms, or any fruit juices that 
may be left over after fruit has been 
canned. To 1 gallon liquid add 1 pint 
of molasses, 1 cup yeast or 1 yeast cake 
softened with a little water and spread 
on a slice of bread. Allow this sweet¬ 
ened juice to stand in a warm place 
until fermentation ceases. Then drain 
off the liquid, strain it through several 
thicknesses of cheesecloth, bottle and let 
stand until the vinegar stage is reached. 
The time varies, depending upon the 
quality and sweetness of the liquid used. 
The bread should be placed in the liquid 
yeast side down. 
Green tomato mincemeat: To 5 pounds 
of green tomatoes, chopped fine, add 1 
teaspoon salt and enough hot water to 
cover well. Bring to a boil. Drain off 
this juice, and repeat the process. Then 
add to the chopped tomatoes 2j4 
chopped apples, 1 pound brown sugar, 
l /n cup finely chopped suet, 2 teaspoons 
cinnamon, 1 teaspoon each of cloves and 
nutmeg, and Vs pound each of raisins 
and currants. Set this mixture back on 
the stove and cook until apples are done. 
Can the fruit in jars and seal tightly. 
This mincemeat is good in the making 
of puddings, fruit cakes and pies and will 
be relished during the winter months. 
