72 
House & Garden 
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Are These Your Problems? 
( Continued from page 71) 
unless you wish to give up growing 
vegetables entirely. Judging by the 
sketch which you sent me, this vegetable 
garden measures about 40' x 68', so that 
it might be possible to cut it down to 
about 40' x SO', thus allowing a little 
more space between the sun room and 
the hedge which you think of using as 
a dividing line. At all events, the rest 
» of my suggestions will not be affected by 
this slight change in the allotment of 
space. 
The most important tiling, to my 
mind, is a suitable boundary for your 
lot, and for this I would*suggest a single 
row of Arborvitae along the alley and 
j also perhaps along the rear boundary 
line to Pleasant Avenue and down 
Pleasant Avenue to 48th Street. The 
J 48th Street boundary could be planted 
with some low hedgey shrub such as 
Japanese barberry. Such an arrange¬ 
ment would satisfactorily screen the 
i alley from the house and make a defi¬ 
nite boundary line between your lot and 
the one adjoining it on the north. As 
far as the Pleasant Avenue end of the 
lot is concerned, it would seem to me 
to be rather advisable to have an ever¬ 
green here, which would be effective 
through the year. 
However, there is an alternative to 
i this plan. The Arborvitae could be used 
| along the alley, as already suggested, 
| while for the back and opposite end of 
1 the lot you could use some such flower¬ 
ing shrub as Spire?a van Houttei. Of 
course, the Spiraea is not evergreen and 
I consequently would not offer so much 
i protection during the winter. However, 
it is a decidedly bushy shrub and even 
when its leaves have fallen it presents a 
I fairly respectable appearance. The Ar- 
borvitas to go around these three lines 
of your property would cost about 
! $20.00, if the plants are set 18" apart. 
The Spiraea, at 12" apart, would cost 
you about $25.00 for the rear line and 
! street end. 
In a property the size of yours, I do 
not think I would attempt much in the 
way of tree planting. You can use a 
few small evergreens or a clump of white 
birches, if you wish—the latter might 
be placed advantageously at the junction 
of the rear line and the hedge dividing 
the vegetable garden from the rest of the 
grounds, or at the junction of that hedge 
with the front line of the property. This 
dividing hedge could be either of lilac 
or Spiraa van Houttei, w.ith an arch in 
the center planted with either pink or 
white Dorothy Perkins rose. 
As for foundation planting, may I 
suggest the following shrubs, scattered 
somewhat irregularly, so as to form a 
broken line without any suggestion of 
formality: 
SpriaavanHouttei Berberis Thunber- 
Forsythia D futzia (on the 
Andromeda flori- north side of 
bunda the house) 
The matter of flowers pure and simple 
I think had best be taken care of by 
using perennials. You can, if you wish, 
plant the seeds of these this summer, 
which will result in blooming plants 
next year, or else purchase the started 
plants next spring and set them out di¬ 
rectly in the space they are to occupy 
permanently. I think the best arrange¬ 
ment for any flowers, either perennial or 
annual, would be in border beds to the 
west of the lilac of Spiraea hedge and 
along the rear line just inside the boun¬ 
dary line. There is not very much room 
on your lot for anything except this sort 
of treatment, which is the reason that 
I am advising it. It would also be pos¬ 
sible to use some of tire spring flower¬ 
ing bulbs planted just at the face of the 
foundation shrub line on the south and 
east sides of the house. Such bulbs as 
narcissus, crocus, snowdrop and hya¬ 
cinth could be used here, planting them 
irregularly or “naturalized.” 
As a foundation list on yvhich you can 
build your flow’er beds. I would suggest 
the following perennials: ' 
Canterbury Bells Foxglove 
Larkspur- Iris 
Columbines in sev- Phlox — several 
eral colors varieties 
In addition to these, you could use a 
few climbing roses about the house, es¬ 
pecially the veranda and sun room, in 
case you wish something to cilmb over 
the pillars, etc. 
Cooking de Luxe in 
(Continued ) 
devices such as food choppers, ice cream 
freezers, egg beaters, electric silver clean¬ 
ers, bread and cake mixers, etc. Such 
a table can be had with a white enamel 
top for $150. 
Another piece of electric equipment 
that is sure to be found in the modern, 
kitchen de luxe is the ozonator placed 
above the door where it will operate most 
effectively with a cross draft. It burns 
up all the kitchen odors and accomplishes 
it more efficiently than flues and range 
hoods. It is priced at $75. 
The electric fan needs no introduction 
and its uses, too, are too well known to 
an Electric Kitchen 
Worn page 49) 
speak of at length. Splendid ones can 
be had for $15 to $35. 
The water heater has not been men¬ 
tioned in connection with the kitchen, 
for it has no place in the kitchen de luxe; 
its place is in the basement where it truly 
belongs, as it adds 'not a jot to- the ap¬ 
pearance of a beautiful kitchen and can¬ 
not be completely camouflaged. 
The clothes washer for the same rea¬ 
son is not to be included in the kitchen. 
The cleaning, drying and ironing of 
soiled linen should not be done in the 
room which is set aside for the prepara¬ 
tion of food. 
Coal-less Gardens Under Glass 
(Continued from page 53) 
When the plants have made their first 
character leaves, they should be trans¬ 
planted in rows about 4" apart and wa¬ 
tered carefully. The plants should be 
shaded for several days until growth has 
again started and then the light may be 
admitted and watering should be looked 
after carefully. It is also quite neces- 
| sary that the spaces between the plants 
' be kept constantly stirred. This practice 
| is even more necessary in the confine- 
' ment of a frame than in the open air, as 
I the breathing action of the soil is re- 
t duced to a dangerous point and is over¬ 
come only by keeping the surface con¬ 
stantly stirred to admit as much air as 
possible. Lack of air is what causes so 
much “damping off,” which is nothing 
more than a fungus caused by excessive 
moisture and lack of air on the surface 
soil. Just as soon as the weather im¬ 
proves air should be admitted freely so 
that the plants are well hardened off 
before it is time to set them out. 
There is no contributing factor of 
greater importance than a properly man¬ 
aged frame, and the home gardener 
should not lose sight of this fact. 
