34 
House & Garden 
A BEGINNER’S LACE COLLECTION 
What to Select—How to Mount and Catalogue 
the Pieces—The Types of Laces 
MABEL F. BAINBRIDGE 
I 
W HY not have a lace col¬ 
lection? Almost all of 
us have some bits of old lace, 
maybe much worn, that have 
come from grandmother’s or 
Great-aunt Susan’s attic. Gath¬ 
er all the pieces together, per¬ 
haps you don’t think they are 
of any value; go to the nearest 
Museum which boasts a collec¬ 
tion of laces. Ask about them, 
but most of all compare them 
with similar pieces there, and to 
your surprise you will find doz¬ 
ens of specimens, that have the 
same queer little outline thread 
or carnations, or flowers in re¬ 
lief that your treasures have. 
Failing a Museum, consult lace 
books at a public library, and 
in any case buy one good lace 
book. After years of reading 
everything that comes out in 
English, I still advise “Point 
and Pillow Lace,” by A. M. 
Sharpe, for a practical, interest¬ 
ing text book, and another more advanced vol¬ 
ume is Mrs. Palliser’s “History of Lace.” 
Cleaning and Care of Laces 
If your specimens are soiled, wash them in 
good soap and water, and either press over 
several thickness of flannel, or if possible, pin 
them out on a large board, using fine lace pins, 
and putting a pin in each picot. The most 
delicate lace will stand a very careful wash¬ 
ing, and be better for it, as the dirt rots the 
threads. If badly stained, bleach in the sun 
or on the snow, but never use acids or bleaches 
of any sort. All breaks must be carefully 
mended, and attempt the work yourself, for 
you will acquire more knowledge of the way the 
lace was made than by hours of study. 
A good way to keep your specimens is to 
mount them on little frames covered with silk, 
have the frames made of y 2 " x 34” wood, 
the size of the drawers or case in which you 
plan to keep your collection. I use an old 
:oin case, and as it is well made and tight the 
aces keep perfectly clean. A set of drawers 
lesigned for butterflies, or specimens of any 
;ort can readily be converted into a lace cabi- 
let. A strong pasteboard box. will answer, if 
mu cannot pro- 
:ure anything 
)etter. Cover the 
rames with silk, 
lo that it is taut 
>n the reverse 
>ide, but leaves 
L depression the 
hickness of the 
vood in front. The 
ace lies in this 
lepression and is 
lot worn by rub- 
iing against the 
ext mount. Sew 
he lace on care- 
ully with a very 
ne thread and 
eedle, folding 
the extra length in a neat pile 
at the end. Never cut your 
specimens, but insert a bit of 
the silk used on the mounts, 
wherever the lace folds on it¬ 
self. The color and material 
used on the frames is a matter 
of choice. I use a dull green, 
which makes a clear, but restful 
background. Old blue is used 
successfully in one French col¬ 
lection, and black velvet makes 
a rich mount, although it is con¬ 
sidered trying to the eyes. 
All laces come under two 
principle divisions; point or 
needle lace made with a needle 
point, and pillow or bobbin 
lace, made on a pillow with bob¬ 
bins. Crochet and knitted laces 
have no historical value and 
although often useful and deco¬ 
rative do not merit a place in 
your collection. 
Needle point laces are the 
oldest as it is a short step from 
ornamented fabric, embroidery, to lace which 
is ornament and fabric at once. A connecting 
link between lace and embroidery is Tirato or 
drawn work, made by drawing apart the 
threads of loosely woven linen, and whipping 
three or four closely together, thus forming 
square meshes. The meshes are the back¬ 
ground, the pattern being often left in the solid 
linen or made by darning some of the meshes. 
Filet, punio a maglia quadra, is made by 
netting the foundation as a fish net was tied, 
and then darning a pattern onto these square 
meshes. Filet is put into the point lace classi¬ 
fication as it is really needle made. 
Needle Point Lace Stitches 
Old embroiderers felt that their work was 
too heavy, and to get the desired effect of rich¬ 
ness combined with delicacy pulled some of 
the threads out, and embroidered on those left. 
They soon realized, however, the handicap of 
having all the threads run at right angles, and 
eventually did away entirely with the linen, 
and couched threads onto a parchment pattern; 
hence punto in aria, literally stitches in the air, 
or lace. Except for the first laces which were 
made with button-hole stitch, a weaving stitch, 
and roll stitch, 
all needle point 
laces are com¬ 
posed of button¬ 
hole stitch; that 
is, just one looped 
stitch into anoth¬ 
er. Armed with 
a strong magni- 
fying glass, ex¬ 
amine a specimen 
carefully, and see 
if it is composed 
of looped stitches, 
and if so, you 
may be sure it 
was made with a 
needle, and goes 
into the needle 
Four examples of Mechlin bobbin lace, mounted according to age of 
example, the top being the oldest. Author’s collection 
A section of Point de Paris mesh. One of the 
pieces in the author’s collection 
An old Alencon, French Point lace collar of 
exquisite workmanship. Author’s collection j 
A piece of Mechlin 
bobbin lace mesh 
Brussels bobbin lace 
mesh 
Lille or English thread 
bobbin mesh 
Valenciennes bobbin » 
lace mesh 
