Brussels Sprouts are primar¬ 
ily a fall and winter vegetable. 
The plant will not mature prop¬ 
erly in intense heat and dryness. 
The plant is closely related 
to the cabbage and Brussels 
Sprouts in their early stages 
treated exactly like a crop of 
Late Cabbage. Seed sown in the 
seed bed out of doors in late 
May should be ready for trans¬ 
planting to their permanent 
place in the garden the latter 
part of July. They should then 
be somewhat leggy plants 5 to 7 
inches high. 
Pinch off a few of the leaves 
and set out the plants about 18 
inches apart in rows that are two feet apart. They 
should have a rich soil but most ordinary garden 
soil will grow good sprouts if the plants are top- 
dressed about two weeks after setting out with 
nitrate of soda at the rate of 1 pound per hundred 
feet of row. 
Cultivate frequently especially after rains.5prouts 
begin forming at the leaf bases of the lower leaves 
first. To stimulate their production it is a good plan 
to break off most of the lower leaves of the plants be¬ 
ginning about October 1st or when the buds develop. 
This also forces more food into the forming sprouts, 
the lowest of which should be picked first. 
The best variety for the Northwest is the Dwarf 
Improved Brussels Sprouts. Pkt., 5c; oz., 25c. 
/injoccoii 
In our write-up for Broccoli we are featuring the 
Italian variety because we believe it to be the best 
type for Northwest soil and weather conditions. Also, 
we feel that very few people know of this variety or 
have actually eaten it. If you come under one of 
these classifications we strongly urge you to plant 
some in your garden this spring. 
Italian Broccoli is a branching herb about 2 feet 
high. In summer all of the lateral branches and the 
circle ones end in a small formed green more or less 
open head. This, which should be cut before it actu¬ 
ally flowers, is cooked like Cauliflower or Spinach 
and is very delicious and rich in the vitamins. 
The plant prefers coolness and moisture rather 
than heat and dryness. Unless you are in a particu¬ 
larly favorable place, that is along the sea coast, 
Italian Broccoli is best treated as a two season crop, 
first it is started in the hotbed or greenhouse in Feb¬ 
ruary or March and transplanted in the open after 
DANISH BALL HEAD CABBAGE 
frost. Second crop is sown in the seed bed in June or 
July and transplanted to tbe garden a month or six 
weeks later. The later crop can be harvested through 
the cool autumn months. 
When the seedlings that are grown in flats are 
ready to put out in the garden, they should be set 
2 feet apart in rows which are themselves 2 feet 
apart. A single row of 50 plants is ample for a fam¬ 
ily of five. The plants do well in any ordinary gar¬ 
den soil but it should be seasonably moist. They are 
moderately rich feeders and commercial fertilizer 
should be applied before plants are put out. The bed 
should be kept free of weeds and well pulverized. 
Packets, 5c; oz., 90c 
Saint Valentine Broccoli is probably better 
known to most gardeners. This is very similar to 
Cauliflower and should be planted with the same 
cultural directions. In this type we also offer Early 
Large White French Broccoli. 
Packets, 5c; oz., 90c 
Cabbage will not stand extreme heat or dryness 
and will grow well only where there is some mois¬ 
ture and coolness. Most good garden soil will pro¬ 
duce satisfactory cabbage if it is properly enriched. 
Commercially it is grown on soil ranging from 
sandy loam to very heavy clay or even mulch. Per¬ 
haps what is more important than texture is soil 
moisture, this must be adequate and conserved by 
constant cultivation. Most important of all is fertil¬ 
ity, no crop repays so richly the expenditure in fer¬ 
tilizer as cabbage. It is most advisable to use a com¬ 
mercial fertilizer that could be applied before plant¬ 
ing, at the rate of II pounds to 100 foot row. You 
will also find that it will pay to top dress about three 
weeks after the plants are set out with Nitrate of 
Soda at the rate of 1% pounds to 100 foot row. The 
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