374 THE CAROLINA MOUNTAINS 
that looks to the south, one shares the feelings and 
almost the faith of Michaux. The view is very im- 
pressive, because of that steep descent of the moun- 
tain into the foothills, the long spurs sweeping down 
in fine lines to a great depth. Above them one looks 
off over scores of noble forms overlapping and blend- 
ing in the hazy distance. The Black Mountains 
stand forth very high and very blue, and beyond 
them, among the many familiar forms, are distin- 
guished what one supposes to be the faint blue line 
of the Smokies — or is it the nearer Balsams? 
The greater mass of the Grandfather lies on the 
south side, where those long buttresses sweep down 
into the valleys of the Piedmont region, glorious 
ridges with broad bald shoulders where cattle pas- 
ture and rhododendrons, laurel, and azaleas stand 
in regal beauty. Between the long spurs, as well as 
between the many smaller ridges, glance rivulets 
that finally become the John's River, whose valley 
one sees from Blowing Rock winding so prettily 
between the foothills. 
Sooner or later you will find your way to McRae's, 
which is to the south side of the Grandfather what 
Calloway's is to the north side, a farmhouse where 
one can stay awhile. There is a trail over the end of 
the Grandfather by which you can go directly from 
Calloway's to McRae's, but to strike this trail you 
have to walk down the Linville River, which, rising 
in an open space but a stone's throw from the head 
of the Watauga, flows in quite the opposite direc- 
tion, and through so narrow a pass that you have to 
