THE GRANDFATHER^ MOUNTAIN 375 
keep crossing and recrossing it, no small matter in a 
season of rains. For there are no foot-logs at all. 
Evidently you are not expected to walk along this 
road, and if you do you must cross the river, 
jumping from rock to rock as best you can. But 
the Linville is one of the streams you are glad 
to know through all its sparkling length, from 
the spring behind the Grandfather to where it 
escapes in wild glee through the gorge below the 
falls. 
There are peacocks at McRae's, and Mr. McRae 
has not forgotten how to play on the bagpipes those 
ancient airs that have so stirred the blood of his race. 
One of the pleasant memories of this side of the 
Grandfather is Mr. McRae walking up and down 
before the house playing the pipes. But you will 
have to coax him to do it. 
McRae's stands on the Yonahlossee Road that 
connects Linville, just below the mountain, with 
Blowing Rock, — Yonahlossee, trail of the bear, — 
but one need fear no bear on the Yonahlossee Road 
to-day. From McRae's there is a path up the Grand- 
father, not to Calloway's High Peak, but to another 
peak reached by a very sweet climb through the 
balsams, which, in all this region, are smaller and 
more companionable than the straight giants of the 
Black Mountains, these of the Grandfather being 
twisted and friendly and profoundly fragrant. From 
this peak one can see in all directions, excepting 
where one of the Grandfather's black summits 
obstructs the view. 
