Down North and Up Along 
than 40,000, it has forts in every direction, — on 
the islands in the bay, on the rim of the town, 
at the navy yard, and, most conspicuous of all, 
in the centre of the town is the citadel. One 
could not throw a stone in Halifax without 
hitting a fort. All roads lead to forts, and 
every walk terminates in a fort. 
The United States needs only to look at 
her sister sitting serene among her forts to feel 
how excellent is peace. 
Halifax itself is a disappointment, — one 
might even say a shock. After having been 
advised to " go there " all one's life, one finally 
goes, to find this city of great expectations 
neither beautiful nor picturesque, in short, 
nothing better than commonplace, a mere hud- 
dle of narrow gloomy streets and cheap build- 
ings ; and it is dirty, too, being addicted to the 
intemperate use of soft coal, — a pernicious 
habit which spoils so many towns in the United 
States which might be charming but for it. 
One feels resentment, too, toward Halifax 
for being a mean city when nature has been 
so lavish with her sparkling waters, her pic- 
turesque hills, and her enchanting outlooks. 
Halifax, set as she is, ought to be a gem, a 
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