XIII 
ENGLISHTOWN 
WE did not go to Baddeck wholly 
for Baddeck's sake, but as well to 
make it a starting-point for the 
plateau to the north which we meant 
to traverse, roads permitting, all the way to the 
bold headland that fronts the icy sea and ends 
the land in this direction. 
The people there are Scotch Highlanders of 
good repute, they having succeeded an older 
population of bad fame and piratical habits. 
Cape North and its Highland fisher-folk had 
been recommended to us at Parrsboro by Mr. 
Gibbons, a unique and beautiful character, pas- 
tor of the Church of England, and lovingly 
called by his people " Parson Gibbons." He 
is the only person of Esquimaux blood, so far 
as we know, who has made a name for himself. 
He wore an expression of great sweetness 
and earnestness, and was a man of so much 
education and culture that it was a pleasure to 
listen to him. His indomitable courage had 
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