XVI 
INGONISH 
BACK of Smoky the road winds up hill 
and down, through closely wooded 
hollows and over barren highlands. 
The sea is lost and the glory thereof, 
the impressive and beautiful headlands that 
abut upon the coast are not in view, the stu- 
pendous front of Smoky has vanished. We 
found it a road diversified by pleasing but 
milder aspects of nature, where the highway 
finally assumed the appearance of a grass-grown 
lane, and where the trees were oaks, maples, 
and birches. 
Then came a roar like a great wind in the 
trees and a glen deep and dark opened along 
our right hand, a turbulent brook shouting from 
its depths. 
We followed this glen, now on its verge, 
now so far away that only the voice of the 
brook told where it was ; and finally we struck 
once more across barren ridges, and through 
hollows where the fir-tree reigned; and finally, 
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