20 
FRED’K H. HORSPORD, CHARLOTTE, VERMONT. 
when stocks are not kept in beds or in the ground, unless stored in damp soil in tight boxes, by spring 
the bulbs become so dried and shrunken that a season is required for them to regain their normal strength. 
Two or three exceptions, perhaps, should be made for spring setting. The Candidumsasa rule do better set 
not later than September 15, and even August 15 is better. Longiflorum and its varieties, also, when set 
in spring must be planted very early. Imported or “store” bulbs, which usually have no roots, should 
be set in early autumn for the best results the following season. Always bear in mind when setting Lilies, 
that they not only send out roots to a good depth below the bulbs, but from where the stem joins the bulb 
to very near the surface of the bed roots will form, and these need feeding as much as those at the bottom. 
Do not LET the bulbs come in contact with this enriched soil. Place a third of an inch or more 
of clear sand or Jight loam under or next to the bulb, and cover with the same before the enriched soil is 
drawn over them. The enriched soil often rots the bulbs when 
allowed to come in contact with them. Do not plant too deep 
or too shallow. If the bulbs could be set 4 inches deep at first, 
and then, after they are up say 6 inches high, a covering of 2 
inches of good, fine leaf-mold could be placed over them as a 
mulch, they would be treated as I like to treat them. Without 
mulch, set 6 inches deep. Well-decayed peat is also an ex¬ 
cellent mulch. 
The flowering season of Lilies varies much. Bulbs 
stored in cellars and planted late often bloom much later than 
those fresh from the ground. The blooming season of Auratum, 
can be much prolonged by setting late in spring a few bulbs 
that have not started. I have had excellent success with 
Auratums when set in an inch or two of fresh sphagnum moss. 
It seems to induce root growth at the bottom of the bulbs. My 
stock Is for the most part fresh from beds. 
L 1 LIUM auratum. Golden Lily of Japan. This is the 
most popular Lily grown. No species ever had so much 
general favor. It is a very variable species in the size, 
color, etc., of its flowers, and also in the time of flowering. 
A bed of 100 Auratums will produce flowers over a longer 
time than a hundred of any other Lily species. Flowers 
white, with a central bana and numerous deep purple 
spots. Height 2 to 6 feet, not rarely bearing 20 large, fra¬ 
grant flowers 8 to 12 inches across. Its fragrance is some¬ 
thing wonderful—so strong that a large bouquet of Aura¬ 
tums will fill a large church with their odor, so as to become 
offensive to some people. July and August. 
-Not prepaid—v /—Prepaid- 
Each r»r»T n*t 
A few extra, monster bulbs . §0 30 
First-sized bulbs.15 
Second-sized bulbs.10 
L. auratum, var. rubro-vittatum 
is a rare form, in which the cen¬ 
tral band is deep red.60 
L. Brownll. See L. japonlcum, 
var. Brownll. 
L. bulbiferum. In some respects 
much like L. croc cum. It is a 
different shaped Lily, so far as the 
bulb is concerned, and while L. 
croceum bears no bulblets, L. 
bulbiferum has a good crop in 
the axils of its leaves. Flowers 
red, slightly cottony. June. . . 
L. canadenso. Wild Yellow 
Lily. Flowers vary in color— 
red and yellow. Grows 2 to 5 feet high, and is a most hardy species. Nice to 
plant among shrubbery, and does quite well in shade. June to July. 
L. candjdum. Madonna Lily. Handsome, large, fragrant, pure white flow¬ 
ers. Easy of culture ; does best when left undisturbed after planting. August 
and September are the best months to plant this Lily.. 
L. cnrnlolicum. Panther Lily. 
L. chnlcedonlcum. Scarlet Martagon, Turk’s-cap. A charming and 
delicate flowered species. No one could help admiring it. July. 
L. oolumbinnum. Oregon Lily. Has reddish orange flowers, with petals 
turned back. 
Lilium canadenae. 
Each 
Doz. 
Each 
Doz. 
?o 30 
So 35 
$1 35 
18 
Si 65 
i 
1 00 
12 
1 20 
. 60 
6 50 
65 
6 90 
15 
1 00 
