Nature’s favorite method of plant reproduction is by seeds ; and 
in this way great numbers of plants can be produced at the least 
expense; also, such plants, as a rule, are more vigorous and more 
free from any constitutional defects of vitality. Gardeners, therefore, 
prefer this method of raising plants whenever it is available, as it 
is in the case of most annual, biennial, and perennial plants. 
Annuals.— rAnnual plants, or those which, starting from the seed, 
attain their growth, bloom and perfect their seeds and then die, all 
in one year, comprise some of the most beautiful flowers of our 
gardens. The annual plants that have been employed in gardening 
are exceedingly numerous, and even to name them would make a 
voluminous list. From this great number, experience has led to a 
selection of the most desirable kinds; and these are mentioned and 
described in the following pages. Asters, Balsams, Mignonette, 
Poppies, Sweet Peas, and Morning Glories, are among the well- 
known annuals that are wanted in every garden. 
Biennials. —The Snapdragon and the Hollyhock are examples 
of what are called biennial plants; that is, those that live two years. 
The Snapdragon will bloom the first year from seed, and live over 
winter and bloom the second summer, and then die ; the Hollyhock 
waits until the second year before sending up its flower-stalks. 
Perennials.—Among perennial plants, or those that live a 
number of years, there are some that will bloom the first year from* 
seed, and some not until the second season. Some of these that 
bloom the first year will not stand our cold winters, and so they are 
practically annuals in cold climates, though in mild regions they 
may live a considerable number of years. The Verbena is an 
instance of this kind. But many desirable perennial plants are 
hardy even in very cold climates, and these are important subjects 
for every flower garden. The Columbine, Calliopsis lanceolata,. 
Perennial Larkspur, and the Foxglove, are examples. 
Kinds to plant where they are to bloom. — When the seeds 
of plants are sown in the garden border most kinds should be trans¬ 
planted soon after they are up, and be given a considerable space 
in which to develope properly. A few kinds only are better to be 
planted where they are to remain to bloom. Some of the most 
prominent among these are the following: Alyssum, Morning 
Glory, Centaurea, Eschscholtzia or California Poppy, Mignonette,. 
Nigella, Poppy, Ricinus, Sunflower, Nasturtium, Cobcea, and 
Sweet Peas. Some even of these it is sometimes desirable to 
transplant, and of course this should be done only when the 
plants are quite small. 
HINTS ON SOWING SEEDS AND TRANSPLANTING 
Sowing Seed. In seed sowing a great deal of skill can be acquired, and 
those who know least about it arc the ones who usually are loudest in their com¬ 
plaints about bad seeds. It is an advantage with many kinds of seed to sow 
them early, as in the case of onions, which should be sown as early in spring as 
the ground can be prepared, but cucumbers and egg plants must wait until the 
ground is warm. Lettuce seed may be scattered on the snow or frozen ground, 
and as a result will give an early crop, but little zinnia plants would 
perish in the cold, even if the seeds germinated when treated the same way. 
When to Sow Seeds. Although, as has been shown, some kinds may be 
put into the ground very early, yet as a rule, seed sowing cannot be safely done 
until frost is all out of the ground and the upper soil has become warm. Some 
people are so anxious to make their gardens that they do not wait until it is 
warm enough, and every spring a great many seeds are sown which start and 
are then cut down by the frost. 
Depth to Sow Seeds. For all seeds the soil should be mellow, and for 
small seeds the surface should be raked very fine. An old rule with gardeners 
is to cover seeds so that the soil over them shall be twice the thickness of the 
seed. But something depends on the character of the soil ; if it is clayey and 
liable to bake, it is a good plan to have some sand to spread over the seeds, as 
this will allow the young plants to push through easily. After planting press 
down and firm the soil over the seed. 
Grass Mulch for Seeds. When fine seeds are to be sown and dry weather 
or a hot sun is to be feared, it is well to place some short clippings of grass or 
some such material over the rows; when the little plants start this mulch can 
be drawn aside a little. At all times seek to secure for the seeds sufficient 
warmth and moisture. 
Sowing Seeds Under Glass. With many kinds of flowering plants and 
vegetables it is not best to wait until the weather is favorable to sow the seed in 
the open garden, for much better results can be obtained if they are sown earlier 
and the plants are large enough to put out when the fine weather comes, for our 
seasons are too short to allow of any long time to wait for the plants to grow. 
For this reason we sow seeds in a propagating house or greenhouse, or in boxes 
in the window, or in a hotbed or coldframe, in some place where the plants can 
be protected while it is vet cold, and yet have a temperature in which they will 
thrive. , 
Hotbeds. Care is required to prevent scorching the young plants. In bright 
days the heat is intense inside the frame, and unless air is freely given, or some 
course taken to obstruct the rays of the sun, most likely a great portion of the 
plants will be ruined. When the sun gets pretty warm give the glass a thin coat 
of whitewash. This gives a little shade, and, with some air during the middle 
of bright days, will make all safe. The hotbed is made by forming a pile of 
horse manure with the straw used for bedding, or leaves, some three feet in 
height. Shake all together, so that straw and manure will be equally mixed. It 
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may be sunk in the ground a foot or eighteen inches, or made on the surface. 
On this place about five inches of good mellow soil. Then set the frame and keep 
it closed until fermentation takes place and the soil is quite warm. It is better 
to wait a day or two after this, and then sow the seeds. 
Coldframe. Some of the advantages of a hotbed can be secured by a cold- 
frame. This is simply a frame with sash, the same as employed for a hotbed,, 
placed upon a bed of fine mellow earth, in some sheltered place in the garden. 
The heat of the sun warms the soil, and, as the air is confined, the warmth and 
moisture cannot escape. After the frame is secured in its place a couple of 
inches of fine earth should be placed inside and the frame closed for a day or two 
before the seeds arc planted. As the coldframe depends upon the sun for 
warmth, it must not be started as soon as the hotbed, and in this latitude the. 
latter part of April is soon enough. Plants will then be large enough for trans¬ 
planting to the open ground as soon as danger from frost is over, and, as a 
general thing, they will be hardier and better able to endure the shock of trans¬ 
planting than if grown in a hotbed. A frame of this kind anyone can manage. 
Watering occasionally will be necessary; and air must be given on bright,, 
warm days. Shade also is necessary. 
Hand-Glasses. A frame, or box, with a couple of lights of glass on top, 
prevents the drying of the surface of the ground, and affords the plants shelter* 
from sudden changes, cold storms, and frosty nights. Seeds may be sown in the 
house in pots, or boxes, but the greatest difficulty is that the soil dries very 
rapidly in them, and young plants are apt to suffer. A very good plan is to 
cover the pot with a pane of glass, removing it occasionally for air. Where 
very fine seeds arc sown in pots, the watering, unless carefully done, generally 
results in great injury. A wet paper placed over the top of the pot will afford 
moisture enough for the germination of fine seeds. If pots are used it is well tO' 
sink them to the rim in a box of moss, or something of the kind, that will hold 
moisture, and prevent the drying of the earth in the pots. A shallow box may 
be used to advantage, sowing the seed carefully in narrow drills. 
Transplanting. All the operations of the garden should be done with neat¬ 
ness ; no crooked irregular rows are admissible. After plants in the seedbeds 
have obtained their second leaves and made an inch or two in growth, thev 
should be moved to the garden beds or border. This should be done on a dull 
day, if possible ; if not, the plants may require shading after removal until they 
become established. In transplanting in dry weather, always give the plants 
as they stand in the seedbed a good soaking with water, and also the soil to 
which they are removed, an hour or so before removal. In removing, disturb- 
the roots as little as possible. 
These helps are intended mainly for tender or half hardy annuals. The 
hardy annuals may be sown where they arc to flower, though, with the excep¬ 
tion of a few varieties difficult to transplant, it is best to sow all in a seedbed 
