Proper fertilizing will do much to produce plants which are far less 
susceptible to attacks of insects and disease. If insects are taking their toll 
in your garden have your local seedsman recommend a spray material for 
your special problem. Many insects are discouraged from attacking a plant 
covered with a white dust whether it is a poison or just a harmless sub¬ 
stance such as flour. Mildew in the late fall can be absolutely prevented 
by one application of “dusting sulphur” applied to the under sides of the 
lower leaves. Use a dust gun of some sort and do the dusting early in the 
morning when the dew is on the leaves. About Sept. 1st is the time to make 
this application. 
Large specimen blooms are the result of systematic dis-budding and 
dis-branching. After the buds appear it will be noted that they usually 
come in clusters of three. The one in the center is generally the strongest. 
Remove the other two and the effort that the plant would expend in produc¬ 
ing flowers from them goes to the terminal bud which is left. The next two 
or three sets of branches (at each leaf below the terminal bud) may also be 
removed, further increasing the size of the bloom to be produced. Be sure, 
however, that at least one set of branches is left to produce the next flowers. 
Many varieties have a tendency to grow straight up with but a single 
stalk. If a bushy plant is desired pinch out the top of the plant when it is 
about eighteen inches tall. Other varieties may produce too many branches 
in which case some may be cut out. Plants which have been pinched out 
may be dis-budded as per instructions above. 
After the frost has destroyed the plants in the fall cut the stalk off at 
the ground. An ordinary saw is fine for this. If possible leave the clump 
in the ground for a week or ten days before digging. A long tinned fork 
is best for digging the clumps. Be careful not to break or even strain the 
necks of the tubers. One person with a fork on each side of the clump to be 
dug can lift the clump out with less damage. Do not leave the clumps ex¬ 
posed to the sun or wind for more than a few minutes. If the clumps are 
too moist to store at once dry them off a bit in the shade or basement. Cut 
the stalk off to within a couple of inches of the crown. This largely helps 
to prevent stem rot later. Store the clumps in containers well lined with 
newspaper to keep out the air as much as possible. Keep the containers in 
a cool frost-proof basement. After the clumps have been stored for three 
or four weeks examine them for stem rot or other decay. If decay has set 
in leave them exposed to the air for a day. Splitting the clumps in two will 
help prevent stem rot. Trim out any decayed parts and dust with sulphur. 
A little sulphur sprinkled over the clumps when they are put in the con¬ 
tainers will prove beneficial. If the clumps show signs of shrivelling moisten 
them with a little water and add more covering. 
The clumps may be divided at any time but it is best to wait until the 
eyes or sprouts show distinctly. Never plant the entire clump. For best 
results divide it so that there is but one sprout to each division. Usually 
good clumps will average four or more divisions. 
We shall be glad to answer any further questions regarding these or 
any other phases of dahlia culture. OUR SERVICE DOES NOT END 
WITH THE SALE. 
* 8 ? 
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