Chap. X. ANCIENT SPLENDOUR OF THE TOWN. 343 
an agave plantation, at the foot of a steep rock — sur- 
rounded by old poplars shading hollows filled with crystal 
clear water — and, lower down, this same stream, foaming 
through a narrow cleft between the mountains, present a 
scene of much beauty. This locality is well known to the 
inhabitants as a resort for parties of pleasure, and it would 
almost seem as if the word Chihuahua, which means a place 
or town of pleasure, applies especially to this spot. The 
word belongs probably to the Tarumare language, in which 
names of places are indicated by tchi or tchic, usually added 
to the end of the word. Smelting works have lately been 
established here, which prepare the silver ore raised at 
St. Eulalia either from new mines or from old ones lately 
reopened. These mines are from twelve to fifteen English 
miles distant from Chihuahua; and from 1703 to 1833, in 
spite of this distance, the ore was brought here for smelting. 
The town of Chihuahua derived its ancient wealth and 
splendour from the rich mines of Santa Eulalia and the 
decline of the town has followed that of the mines. The 
population, which amounted to 76,000 during the pros- 
perity of the mines, has, since their decline, and the sepa- 
ration from Spain, sunk to 12,000 ; and, with the excep- 
tion of a few families in which old property has been 
retained, or gained afresh by an awakening spirit of 
enterprise, poverty with an accompanying amount of de- 
moralisation has gained ground. The town is more or less 
unsafe. Going into the courtyard, one evening soon after 
my arrival, I was surprised by Mr. M.'s advising me to 
take my pistol ; and, upon my remarking that our court 
was inaccessible on all sides, it was with still greater 
surprise that I was bid to remark the windows of the ad- 
joining houses which commanded our court. This was in 
one of the first houses in the best part of the town ; and so 
