Chap. X. ROUGH-RIDING AND MEXICAN HORSES. 355 
has been driven there, probably in expectation of a more 
valuable metal. 
One can go quite round this mountain, passing over a 
broad and rather elevated pass behind the town, and re- 
turning through the valley of Tavalope, past the Junta. 
This tour, which describes a circle of about ten miles, I 
made on horseback with a man whom I shall subsequently 
have often to mention. Don Guillermo had offered me a 
horse which not every one would have liked to ride, and 
which indeed taxed all my skill to control. But though 
I occasionally nearly lost my seat, our wild gallop over 
the rough ground, intersected by deep watercourses, and 
covered with the thorny chaparral, was achieved without 
accident. We were some distance from the town when 
we remembered that we were without arms, and that con- 
sequently, should we meet any Indians, our safety must 
depend upon the fleetness and surefootedness of our horses. 
With such a stimulus the excitement became great, and 
I shall ever remember this ride for its extreme enjoyment. 
When we got on to the road of Tavalope, clear from the 
chaparral, we gave our steeds the rein. And along the 
deep bed of the stream, between steep rocks, and lighted 
by the glory of a Mexican full moon, we flew, while Don 
Guillermo, who took great pleasure in repeating poetry, 
recited the most beautiful verses of Zorilla's Don Juan 
Tenorio. Even this was characteristic. It was indeed a 
genuine Mexican ride, which cannot be imagined without 
Mexican scenery, Mexican ground, a Mexican sky, Mexican 
dangers, and above all Mexican horses. The surefooted- 
ness and endurance of these horses upon the roughest 
ground are unequalled. During hunts they will gallop up 
and down the steep mountain sides, and even take their 
riders at full speed over the jagged lava remains of a 
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