PART I. 
FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 
HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING, ETC. 
We cannot attempt to give complete directions on all points connected with Tree Planting, but simply 
a few hints on the more important operations. Every man who purchases a bill of trees should put him¬ 
self in possession of “ The Fruit Garden,” or some other treatise on tree culture, that will furnish him 
with full and reliable instructions on the routine of management. Transplanting is to be considered 
under the following heads: 
1st. THE PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.—For fruit trees the soil should be dry , either natural 
or made so by thorough drainage, as they will not live or thrive on a soil constantly saturated with 
stagnant moisture. It should also be well prepared by twice plowing, at least, beforehand, using the 
subsoil plow after the common one at the second plowing. On new, fresh lands, manuring will lie 
unnecessary ; but on lands exhausted by cropping, fertilizers must be applied, either by turning in heavy 
crops of clover, or well decomposed manure or compost. To ensure a good growth of fruit trees, land 
should be in as good condition as for a crop of wheat, corn or potatoes. 
2d. THE PREPARATION OF THE TREES.—In regard to this important operation, there are 
more fatal errors committed than in any other. As a general thing, trees are planted in the ground 
precisely as they are sent from the Nursery. In removing a tree, no matter how carefully it may be 
done, a portion of the roots are broken and destroyed, and consequently the balance that existed in the 
structure of the tree is deranged. This must be restored by a proper pruning, adapted to the size, form 
and condition of the tree, as follows: 
Standard Orchard Trees.— These, as sent from the Nursery, vary from five to seven feet in 
height, with naked stems or trunks, and a number of branches at the top forming a head. These 
branches should all be cut back to within three or four buds of their base. This lessens the demand 
upon the roots, and enables the remaining buds to push with vigor. Cut oil smoothly all bruised or 
broken roots up to the sound wood. In case of older trees, of extra size, the pruning must be in propor¬ 
tion ; as a general thing it will be safe to shorten all the previous year's shoots to three or four buds at 
their base, and where the branches arc very numerous some may be cut out entirely. 
Dwarf or Pyramidal Trees, if of two or three years’ growth, with a number of side branches, 
will require to be pruned with a two fold object in view, viz.: The growth of the tree and the desired 
form. The branches must be cut into the form of a pyramid by shortening the lower ones, say one-half, 
those above them shorter, and the upper ones around the leading shoots to within two or three buds of 
their base. The leader itself must be shortened back one-half or more. When trees have been dried or 
injured much by exposure, the pruning must be closer than if in good order. 
Yearling Trees Intended for Pyramids.— Some of these may have a few side branches, the 
smallest of which should be cut clean away, reserving only the strongest and the best placed. In other 
respects they should be pruned as directed for trees of two years’ growth. Those having no side branches 
should be cut back so far as to insure the production of a tier of branches within twelve inches of the 
ground. A strong yearliug, four to six feet, may be cut back about half, and the weaker ones more than 
that. It is better to cut too low than not low enough, for if the first tier of branches be not low enough 
the pyramidal form cannot afterwards be perfected. 
3d. PLANTING.—Dig holes in the first place large enough to admit the roots of the tree to spread 
out in their natural position ; then, having the tree pruned as before directed, let one person hold it in an 
upright position, and the other shovel in the earth, carefully putting the finest and the best from the 
surface in among the roots, filling every interstice, and bringing every root in contact with the soil. 
