8 HARRISONS’ NURSERIES, BERLIN, MARYLAND 
Orchard planting plan, diagonal system. No. 1 trees 
permanent; No. 3 tree fillers to he removed in about ten 
years; No. 2 tree fillers to be removed in twenty years. 
cient quantity of loamy soil with water till it makes 
a thick paste, and dip the roots in this till all are 
well covered. When planting, take only a few trees 
out of the trenches at one time, just as you need 
them. By exposing the roots as little as possible 
the trees will keep in much better condition. 
Frozen Trees. When trees are frozen in ship¬ 
ment, bury the box, with the trees in it, a foot or 
more deep, that is, cover it with a foot of earth. 
Orchard planting plan, modified square system. No. 1 
trees permanent; No. 3 tree fillers to be removed in about 
ten years; No. 2 tree fillers to be removed in about twenty 
years. 40 ft. apart each way is a good distance for perma¬ 
nent trees. 
If not possible, put the box in a cellar, where the 
trees will thaw out slowly. You can leave them 
there for weeks untouched. After they are thawed 
out, the roots in each end of the box should be 
dampened from time to time. When free from 
frost, trees should be heeled-in at some protected 
place, if possible. In cold sections, it is a good idea 
to trench-in trees—roots and branches. In warmer 
sections, it is enough to cover the roots and lower 
Orchard planting plan, diagonal system, with two fillers 
between permanent trees. No. 1 trees permanent; No. 3 
trees to be removed in eight or ten years; No. 2 trees to 
be removed in eighteen or twenty years. 
third of the trunks, and let the tops stick out. 
They will come out fresh in the spring, and with 
more vitality. A good way is to dig a trench 2 feet 
deep, with a long slant toward the south on one 
side, then put the trees in with tops a foot or more 
higher than the roots, and cover the entire tree 
with dirt. 
How to Plant. We should advise dynamiting 
the tree-holes, if possible, placing the charge about 
18 inches deep. A third or half of a stick will be 
enough. This will loosen and heave the soil, and 
not throw it out. You will find that the effect of 
dynamiting, compared with digging only, will be 
noticeable for years in the growth of the trees. In 
case you decide to dig the holes, be sure to make 
them large enough so there is plenty of room for the 
roots without crowding or breaking them. 
Trees should be set about 2 inches deeper than 
they stood in the nursery. See that the holes are 
opened up deeper than you want to set the trees, 
and fill in a few inches with top soil. As you fill in 
more top-soil about the roots, keep working the 
tree up and down vigorously, to fill all air-spaces. 
Keep packing the dirt. When the hole is half filled 
in, you can apply one pound of raw ground bone or 
fish scrap. 
Then finish filling in. Be sure the dirt is made 
tight. You can’t get it too solid. Use a small maul, 
or your feet. Come down on it with as many pounds 
as you can muster. A couple of inches at the top, 
however, should be loose, as a mulch. During the 
winter, the winds will sway the tree about to a 
certain extent, making a funnel in the dirt around 
the stem. All of this should be corrected in early 
spring by tamping. 
Planting Plans. Many are using three peach 
trees to one apple tree with success; others prefer 
using two apple fillers. (See diagram.) We recom¬ 
mend the following apples as fillers in an apple 
orchard. A very desirable early kind is Yellow 
Transparent, because the limbs of this variety 
grow upward. It can be pruned to suit conditions. 
Grimes’ Golden is a short-lived tree, and begins to 
bear very early. A little later in season is Wealthy, 
which is a rather dwarf grower and a fine filler; 
Duchess of Oldenburg is dwarf, also bears early and 
ripens early. Wagener is the dwarfest of all, and is 
an exceedingly fine variety for this purpose. The 
first one mentioned has our preference. 
In recommending these fillers, we take it that the 
man who plants them is planting for profit and is 
planting to succeed; planting to get the most money 
from his acres. Two hundred trees to the acre soon 
get too thick, but they pay well during the first 
few years. We take it that we are talking to people 
who will have nerve enough when the proper time 
comes to cut out the fillers. 
We know of instances where the apple fillers have 
paid the price of the land, the cost of the trees and 
all expenses of operation, before they were at all in 
the way of the standard trees. We know of other 
orchards where three peach trees to one apple tree 
have been planted, and the peach trees have paid 
the entire expenses before they interfered with the 
apple trees. Bear in mind that unless fillers are 
cut out in time they will interfere and prevent 
standards from making as much growth as they 
should.. But the profit from fillers, with proper care, 
makes it well worth while to plant them. To show 
our firm belief in fillers, we are using them in our 
own commercial orchards and would plant no other 
way. (See diagrams.) 
“HOW TO GROW AND MARKET FRUIT” IS OUR GUIDEBOOK FOR FRUIT-GROWERS 
