10 
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HARRISONS’ NURSERIES, BERLIN, MARYLAND 
Peach tree on the left , two-year apple tree in the middle 
and one-year apple tree at the right 
3 by 6 to 5 by 8 feet; and blackberries from 4 by 7 
to 6 by 9 feet. 
Fillers* If you think you will not use your trees 
right while they are growing, or that you will lack 
the determination to cut out the nicely bearing 
fillers when they are about twelve years old, do not 
plant fillers, for these things must be done. But 
no business farmer will 
think of going to the 
expense of growing a first- 
class apple or pear orchard 
without planting early- 
bearing sorts of these 
same fruits, or of peaches 
or strawberries, between 
his permanent trees. To 
use fillers makes the or¬ 
chard a paying investment 
in a few years. (See 
planting diagrams.) 
Pruning Peach Trees 
After Planting. All 
peach trees are one year 
old from bud, and when 
set in the fall all bruised 
roots should be removed; 
but we prefer leaving the 
limbs and top on the tree 
When the hole is half filled in, a pound of bone fertilizer 
can be applied, but this is not a necessity 
until spring. When 
growth starts, prune the peach trees to a whip, and 
cut them back to whatever height you desire your 
trees headed. We prefer heads not higher than 18 
inches. In one of our orchards the trees are headed 
at 12 inches. (See illustrations.) 
Pruning One-year Apple Trees After Plant¬ 
ing. Prune off all bruised roots with a smooth cut 
on a slant that leaves the face down. Leave on all 
the limbs until spring, and when growth starts, if 
the tree is a whip, simply cut it off at the height 
which you desire the head to be. We would prefer 
this to be not more than 18 inches from the ground. 
If the tree is more or less branched, and the head 
already formed, prune the side branches with regard 
to the frame of the future head, leaving sticks 4 to 
6 inches in length and cut off the top. The total 
height should be about 18 inches. We do not 
advise pruning the branches or cutting back the 
top until spring, for best success. (See illustra¬ 
tions.) 
Pruning Two-year Apple, Pear and Cherry 
Trees After Planting. With two-year apple trees, 
especially of first grade, the shape of the tree usually 
has been fixed by the nurseryman, but it is necessary 
in planting to remove all bruised roots with a 
smooth, slicing cut. No trimming of the tops should 
be done in the fall, but in early spring you can 
round up the branches as they ought to be to 
develop into a well-balanced head. Our plan is to 
prune off the side branches within from 4 to 6 
inches of the trunk, and cut the top out about 12 
inches above these side branches. If the tree has a 
well-defined center leader, it then will put out a 
second story of limbs, and in this way get more 
fruit-bearing wood. The pruning of pear and 
cherry trees is about the same as for a two-year 
apple. (See illustrations.) 
Cultivation of Orchards. Cultivation keeps 
the trees supplied with available plant-food and 
saves moisture. Young orchards of any kind always 
should be cultivated clean, from early spring until 
in July. Plow or tear up the soil as soon as ground 
is dry enough to work, harrow after every rain, and 
every week or ten days until it is time to sow the 
cover-crop, or mulch for winter. Keep them hustling. 
Cover-Crops. A cover-crop should be sown in 
the latter part of the summer, when trees have made 
their growth for the year, and when both fruit and 
trees have begun to ripen. Cover-crops hold the 
soil together and keep it from leaching out and 
gullying, and also newly 
sown plants take up water 
in great amounts and take 
it away from the trees. 
This is the thing desired 
at this time, for tree- 
growth needs a check 
then. But, still better, 
young plants require a 
great deal of nitrogen, but 
comparatively less potash 
and phosphorus. As the 
cover-crop grows, it feeds 
largely on the nitrogen, 
leaving much potash and 
phosphorus for the trees, 
just when they need them 
most. Vetch, rye and the 
clovers make excellent 
cover-crops. 
If the crop is of a kind not killed by the winter, 
it will grow up very rank in the spring and should 
be plowed under early—about as soon as the ground 
is fit to work—or it will rob the trees of water 
and food, and do much more damage than it does 
good. Plowed under it will benefit the soil. 
How the three trees shown in the upper picture should 
be pruned in the spring after planting. Note that the peach 
and one-year apple are headed about 15 inches high, and 
the two-year apple is shaped for best future head. 
“HOW TO GROW AND MARKET FRUIT” IS A BOOK OF REAL VALUE 
