t i
if
time, is money, to man, it is honey to bees. as the storing of surplus 
honey is done in about 2 months or less, not a single unnecessary step the or
nectar should be imposed upon a single be. this should be an axiom with the beemaster
and should be kept in the mind in the construction of every part of the hive and in the whole management
of the apiary. he who has powerful stocks at the time when the honey harvest is gathered in
hives where they can labor to the utmost advantage, with judicious management will be
sure to succeed. the great difficulty with most of the patent hives is the large amount of
extra labor which they demand of the bees compared with the old fashioned box or straw hives. 
in every part of my hive i have made it a study in every part of my hive to save the time of the bees,
and it will be found that the bees in this hive can store their honey and fill their boxes in
even a shorter time then they could do the same amount of work in the common box, this is owing to the
great regularity of the combs, which always focus rapid work, and the extraordinary facility with
which the bees pass to the boxes etc. bees during the working season should be regularly supplied with the water 
a few minutes a week will supply a large apiary, and will delay the trouble tenfold. 
from t e. ends of hive no rabbet needed, and perhaps better, or two 7/8 inch thick may be used. this
would allow 7/8 inch bottom strips as well as 7/8 inch rabbet strips and although it would make the hive
somewhat heavier second story would probably cost less than the plan to rabbet, and to cut sides has figured
on previous page. weight might be remedied by making sides of second story say 1/2 inch thick instead of 7/8 inches,
and as the ends would come inside the sides might be very shortly nailed to the 1 1/2 inch ends. still
7/8 inches for the sides would make a better job, as 1/2 inch would not allow rabbet and bottom strips to nail
so strongly as to hold second story together without corners opening. some may prefer to make second story so as
to have no honey board, but i prefer the honey board, not only as better to keep queen down, but preventing bees
from making comb between tops of lower and bottoms of upper frames. as second story will store over
80 pounds, by removing from time to time full frames ample storeroom can be got for strongest stocks. December 28th. 
if it were not for advantage as handles to lift second story, rabbets might be made in thick front and rear
and no rabbet strips used, but they are needed to handle easily second story parts parts of second story that
rest on ledges might have the 1/8 inch hardwood strips, but as these second story need not often be
lifted off little need of this, better use shoe pegs in corners to prevent crushing, danger of breaking off the
hardwood strips. pm. suggested to me by Mr. cole carpenter at hamilton to put the 1/8 inch strips
four rabbets into saw clefts. this probably much the cheapest and best way. rabbet ends of
hive 7/8 inches wide and 7/8 inches down, just thickness of tops of frames. thin piece to support honey board
maybe put in the thin clefts on front and sides to come in 3/8 inches from inside of hive period to set the
strips for frames in clefts would not [illegible] as they would if moved full into hive. 



