November is the best month in which to plant, but in (tali forma, ('aloehor- 
tuses can be put into the ground as late as February, and make a good growth. 
Plant about three inches deep, and as far apart each way. A little shade is 
a good thing. 
Only water when plainly needed, and after they have (lowered dry off com¬ 
pletely, and leave alone until fall. The first rains will start them into fresh 
growth and they do not need to be t ouched. 
Culture in the Eastern United States 
Keeping the essentials that I have mentioned in view the following fmin 
Garden and Forest of July 7th, 1X97, written by .J. K, Gerard a successful 
amateur of Elizabeth, New .Jersey, will give valuable cultural hints. 
“It is probable that many who have ventured to grow them have been dis¬ 
appointed in results, for the cultural directions of the catalogues are usually 
more or less incorrect. They often recommend cultivation in frames or other 
conditions which deter most growers from attempting their cultivation. Mv ex¬ 
perience with all theispecies is that they are not tender nor at all difficult to flower 
in this latitude in the ordinary garden border. Galoehortuses grow naturally in 
regions rainless in summer and where dormant plants waken into growth in the 
fall under the influence of moisture, but not necessarily of a high temperature. 
'They are hardy here without protection but must be classed with those bulbs 
whose foliage will not always endure the rigor of our winter. The successful 
growth of such bulbs requires that after being thoroughly ripened in the early 
summer they shall be kept perfectly dormant so late in the year that no foliage 
can appear above the ground until early in the ensuing spring. The simplest 
and safest procedure is to lift the bulbs after ripening foliage indicates dormancy, 
and store them in dry earth in a warm dry place, and plant out when the ground 
has lost its warmth which in this locality is in November. (Tinier such treat¬ 
ment they grow and flower well here even in soil too hard to work in dry 
weather and with no other attention than that already suggested. Of course 
one does not plant bulbs in manured soil or soil rich in humus which w ill hold 
water and ferment to their injury.” 
I would add that when similarly treated in cold frames, success is certain. 
I believe that the Globe and Star Tulips, as well as such species as ('. Nuf- 
talli, C. Nitidus, C. Howellii, G. Gmmisomiii and C. Leichtllinii can be read¬ 
ily naturalized in Eastern woodbinds. 
A well known Eastern Gardener writes to me that in Central Fennsylvania 
C. Gunnisonii does well naturalized, only suffering from the rabbits who are 
very fond of its foliage. 
Culture in Englaovd 
A successful grower in London “Garden” writes: “A large raised bed, 
formed in November, and sloping to the south, was composed of leaf mold and 
road grit in equal parts, with a similar portion of sharp sand. The bulbs were 
planted three inches deep, and the whole bed was covered with reeds to throw 
oil the heavy rains and keep the soil open. Many young growths appeared 
