198 
TIBET. 
same time, to operate as a charm over the Dewtas, or genii loci , who 
are paramount here. No mountain is thought to be wholly exempt from 
their influence; but they are peculiarly given to range in the most ele* 
vated regions; where, drenched with dews, and worried by tempes¬ 
tuous weather, they are supposed to deal around thorn, in ill humour, 
their most baneful spells, to harass and annoy the traveller. 
We descended, by an easy declivity, towards the plain of Phari; 
and as we proceeded, the first object viewed upon it, from the road, 
was a low hill, rising abruptly from a dead flat, and crowned with a 
square stone building, dedicated, as I was told, to funeral ceremo¬ 
nies. According to the custom of Tibet, which, in this respect, is in 
direct opposition to the practice of almost all other nations, instead of 
that pious attention which is shewn to the remains of the dead, in the 
preservation of their bodies from pollution, by depositing them in the 
ground, they are here exposed, after their decease, like the Persees of 
India, in the open air, and left to be devoured by ravens, kites, and 
other carnivorous birds. In the more populous parts, dogs also come 
in for a share of the prey, and regularly attend the consummation of 
the last obsequies. 
About a mile farther on, the fortress of Phari first came in view, 
upon the left, standing on high ground. It was a stone building, ol 
very irregular form, but deemed to be of great strength. This must 
consist in the solidity of its walls; which indeed is all that is neces¬ 
sary, among a people entirely unprovided with artillery. The sun was 
setting; I saw the last of it about two miles off when we turned short to 
the right towards Chassa Goombah; but I had just time to distinguish 
