TIBET. 
251 
another filled with tobacco and a pipe, together with a little pouch for 
tinder, containing a piece of flint, and edged at the bottom with a bar 
of steel. The horse he rode, was decorated with large crimson tassels, 
and other splendid trappings, whilst a number of bells, suspended to 
a collar that hung round his neck, jingled as he moved along with 
slow and solemn pace. The body of the horse, from the multitude 
of Chowrs , or cow tails, that hung on both sides, could scarcely be 
seen. 
The select attendants were equipped nearly after the same manner. 
s 
The dress of those of more humble rank differed chiefly in the quality 
of the materials. They were clad, for the most part, in cloth, either 
yellow, or red, or striped with these colours, and they wore upon 
their heads round hats, having large flowing tassels of scarlet silk 
upon the centre of the crown. Some had narrow braids a little turn¬ 
ed up, and others were bordered by broad bands of fur. The most 
extraordinary in appearance were those worn by the Kilmauks (Cal- 
* 
mucs), which were of vast dimensions. I suppose not less than two feet 
in diameter, with shallow crowns, but monstrous brims; the whole 
covered with long locks of wool matted together, of a gaudy yellow 
colour. Some Goseins, wearing turbans and the Indian habit, with 
Moguls from the borders of Persia, in their national dress, assisted 
also to compose this motley group. There were none in the whole 
cavalcade, as far as I could perceive, who bore any kind of arms. Heaps 
of fire were distinguishable to a very remote distance, burning on 
either side of the road, and emitting columns of thick smoke. These 
bonfires, which I have already noticed, are a mark of respect shewn 
K k 
