CALIFORNIA NURSERYCLEjnc.,NILESXAL/FORMA 
ROSES 
R OSE growing is a specialty with us. One of the influences that originally determined 
the location of our nursery at Niles was the fact that soil and climate were most per¬ 
fectly adapted to the growth of splendid plants of this beautiful and lavorite flower. 
To these natural advantages we add many years of experience and experiment, so that 
we honestly believe that no better Roses than ours are grown anywhere. 
Our assortment is constantly changing. Unless a variety has some marked point in its 
favor, it is dropped. New varieties are constantly being tested, and if found valuable are 
propagated and offered for sale. 
Every rosebush we sell is grown entirely in the open ground and almost all are budded. 
In spite of the pretended objections offered by disseminators of weak plants on their own 
roots, there is absolutely no doubt that the budded plants are far superior. (There are a 
very few unimportant exceptions and these we grow from cuttings, anyway.) The only pos¬ 
sible objection is that they may send up suckers, but as we use the right kind of stocks and 
carefully disbud them, this is very unlikely to occur. A further preventive is to plant them 
so that the point where they have been budded shall be three or four inches below the 
surface. 
PLANTING AND PRUNING 
Roses will grow and bloom if planted with 
only ordinary care, but far better results will 
be obtained with a little extra attention to 
details. The ground should be thoroughly 
spaded and, unless very rich, should have some 
well-rotted manure worked in. Fresh manure 
is likely to kill the plants unless placed on the 
surface as a mulch after planting is completed. 
If soil is light and sandy, it is well to work 
in a good proportion of heavy soil. The 
bushes are partially pruned before leaving the 
nursery. Climbers and very strong varieties 
may be planted as they are, but weak growers 
should be pruned back even further. Examine 
the roots carefully; if calluses have formed 
at the tips, let them remain as they are. Where 
the ends show no calluses, cut off the tips so 
that the fresh wood will come into close con¬ 
tact with the soil. Straighten out all roots 
and as the dirt is filled in see to it that it is 
well packed around them; this keeps out the 
air and encourages a prompt growth of root¬ 
lets. Be sure that the Rose is planted enough 
lower than it grew so that the point where it 
is budded shall be three or four inches be¬ 
neath the surface. If the plants are at all dry, 
soak them overnight in a bucket of water 
before planting. 
Tree Roses are to be handled in about the 
same way. They are pruned back pretty well 
before shipment. It is absolutely necessary 
to stake them when planted and to keep them 
staked thereafter, as the stems never attain 
sufficient strength to support the heavy top 
during severe winds. 
Future pruning varies with different classes 
of Roses, but all should be cut back at least 
once a year before new growth has started. 
Weak growers require the most pruning, 
strong growers the least. In all cases the 
short, crooked growth should be removed en¬ 
tirely and the strongest shoots cut back mod¬ 
erately, leaving enough to form a basis for 
new growth. When pruning Standards, it is 
necessary to give attention to the form of the 
head, so that it may remain symmetrical and 
globular. 
MILDEW AND APHIS 
When the leaves show a whitish mould, they 
are attacked by mildew, which is a fungous 
disease developing rapidly under certain cli¬ 
matic conditions. It is far worse in some 
sections than others, and certain varieties are 
particularly subject to it. The remedy is pow¬ 
dered sulphur applied promptly as soon as 
the disease appears. This should be done in 
the morning while the dew is still on the 
Mad. Caroline Testout 
See page 91 
88 
