NILES, ALAMEDA COUNTY, CAL. 
55 
Suggestions for Planting and Pruning 
Ornamentals 
In our climate the best time for planting both evergreen and deciduous trees is after the heavy frosts have subsided 
and sufficient rain has fallen to wet the ground thoroughly. The proper conditions generally obtain during January, 
February and March. Palms move best in late spring and early summer. The foregoing applies particularly to plants 
that have to be dug from the open ground; those grown in pots, and also plants established in boxes, can be planted at 
any time if they receive proper care and attention. 
The holes should always be made much larger than merely enough to contain the ball or roots, and then filled in 
again, putting the best soil nearest the roots. The burlap must never be removed from balled plants; it soon rots 
and cannot possibly do any harm. To remove it is to risk breaking the ball, which usually means the loss of the plant. 
When plant comes boxed, remove only the bottom at first. After it is in the hole and standing just as it is going to remain, 
the sides can be taken off and the dirt filled in. If the weather is hot, it is a good plan to let the top of evergreens stay 
tied up for a few days, which greatly reduces evaporation and helps the tree to get established. Keep the tops well 
sprayed. In planting deciduous trees and shrubs which are shipped with bare roots, be certain that the dirt is packed 
and rammed just as tightly as possible around the roots; only on the very surface should the soil be loose. Never 
put manure in among the roots when planting. It can be spread on top of the ground around the plant, where it will 
act as a mulch. Used in this way, it is an advantage; putting it in around the roots generally kills the plant. 
Deciduous trees should be pruned in proportion to the amount of roots lost in transplanting. The natural shape 
should be preserved as much as possible. Where a clean trunk is wanted, the lower limbs should be shortened in, but 
not cut off close. Leave part of these branches so that the new growth may shade the trunk. They can be removed 
gradually as the tree attains growth. In very hot districts the bare part of the trunk should be shaded on the south¬ 
west side by placing a board in the proper position or wrapping it with burlap. Whitewashing the trunk accomplishes 
the same results. The idea of this is to prevent injury by sunburn, which is usually an invitation to borers to enter 
the tree. 
Most trees should be firmly staked when planted, as this will prevent heavy winds from loosening them and insures 
a straight growth. This is a very important precaution with both deciduous and evergreen trees and is too often 
neglected. In fastening the tree to the stake, take pains to do it so the tree will not be chafed or choked by the rope. 
Proper planting, while of the very greatest importance, is really only a good start in the right direction. Trees 
may live if neglected, but they will come very far from attaining perfection. Never let them get dry the first summer. 
When you water the ground around them, see that it is thoroughly soaked. This is vastly better than giving them a little 
water continually. The tops will appreciate almost daily spraying during the dryest weather. Keep the ground around 
your plants and trees thoroughly loose and preferably mulched as well. Good stock properly planted and cared for 
will more than repay all expenditure of time and money. 
Fruit Trees 
We ship to sections of such diversified climatic conditions that specific directions for general use are not advisable. 
There are, however, practices to be followed in any and all sections which we will outline briefly. 
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 
The ground should be plowed at least twice, and the second plowing should be as deep as can be done, using a 
subsoil plow. The ground should be well drained so that no stagnant water remains about the roots. 
HEELING IN 
On receipt of the trees, open a ditch in loose soil, unpack the trees, being careful to shake out all packing material, 
put in the trench side by side and cover the roots with fine earth, being careful that it is well filtered among the roots 
to keep them moist. Never heel in in bundles. 
PLANTING 
The holes should be dug at least eight inches to one foot larger in every direction than required by the roots when 
spread out in their natural position. The top soil should be broken down from the edge, and raised to a cone in the 
center of the hole to set the tree on, and the roots then brought to their natural position. While one man is holding 
the tree, let the other shovel in the top soil, which should be made quite fine, carefully between the roots until covered, 
then tramp firmly as the filling up progresses; when nearly all filled in, place two inches of fine, loose soil on the top. 
The tree when planted may in light soil stand from two to three inches deeper than it stood in the Nursery, but 
in heavy clay, or wet ground, it is advisable to have it stand at the same height as it was before transplanting. 
PRUNING 
The tops should be shortened in more or less, depending on size, variety and condition of the trees. In commer¬ 
cial orchards one-year-old trees are cut down from 18 inches to 2 feet above ground, and all side limbs are cut to one 
or two buds; two-year-old trees with formed tops should be shortened in from 6 inches to 1 foot of main stem. 
No summer pruning should be done the first year, strong-growing side limbs on lower part of the tree can be short¬ 
ened in from 6 inches to 1 foot from stem, so that the leaves left will shade the tree. 
SHADING 
On account of our long, hot, dry summers, it is well to shade the sunny side of the tree to prevent sun-scald. 
This will keep the borers out, as they never attack a tree except at a point of injury. The shading can be done with 
a board or shook, or else with a piece of burlap wound loosely about the trunk. Whitewash is also a good protection, 
as it reflects the heat. 
AFTER CULTURE 
The success of the newly planted trees depends on the care received the first three months after planting. The 
ground should be kept clean, loose and cultivated after each rain. Should the ground be dry and the trees not start 
well, scoop out a basin around each tree, pour in two or three buckets of water, and as soon as dry fill in the soil again, 
breaking it up fine to hold moisture. 
