Conducted by W. C. EGAN. 
DAHLIAS 
I had grown tired of the old-fashioned quilled dahlias on account 
ot their lumpy appearance when used for decorative purposes, and 
grew some of the so-called “cactus” varieties last summer, but 
was disappointed in the result. I do not know the names of those 
I grew. They were given me by a friend. The blooms were few 
in number and on short stems, being almost hidden bv the foliage. 
I manured the ground heavily before planting. Is there some 
trick in getting plenty of blooms of this class of dahlias ? If so, 
please advise me in your magazine. Are there other varieties 
besides the cactus and the old-fashioned quilled, that are worth 
growing ? I am limited in room. 
J. L. D., Chicago, Ill. 
Last year was a very poor one for dahlias in the Middle West. 
The hot drying winds caused many varieties to be so late in bloom¬ 
ing that the trost caught them before they could perfect their 
Bowers. As such seasons are apt to occur again, it is therefore a 
good plan to select only those varieties that may be depended upon. 
Perhaps you had one of the earlier introductions which had the 
serious fault of blooming down in the foliage. In the newer 
varieties this fault has been overcome. 
In order to be able to pluck a sufficient number of blooms of one 
color tor a large effective bouquet, it is best to grow at least three 
plants of each variety desired. The following list is selected from 
a field of sixty named varieties, each one given having bloomed 
“early and often” while many of the remaining ones never gave a 
flower. 
Among the cactus group, “ Countess of Lonsdale” stands pre¬ 
eminent, and no one should be without it. It is far ahead of any 
in the number and earliness of bloom and length of stem. It is so 
prolific in blooms that if a longer stem than seems natural is 
desired, the lateral branches and buds may be cut off, quite away 
down and not be missed. In fact the disbudding is good for the 
plants. I will not attempt to give the color, I have never been able 
to describe it, and will therefore state that it is described in two 
prominent catalogues as “a delicate apricot, shading towards the 
edges of the petals to a carmine pink,” and “a pleasing blending 
of amber and salmon pink.” Under the electric light its color 
is fascinating and the flowers when cut are good keepers. 
“Clara J. Stredwick,” a salmon-flesh color; “Floradora,” a dark 
velvety crimson with long stems and a good keeper; “ Strahlein 
Krone,” a cardinal red; and “Winsome,” a pure white, will give 
quite a choice of colors. 
The decorative type is midway between the quilled and cactus, 
and as its name indicates is quite effective in bouquet work. The 
best and earliest bloomers with me were “Mrs. Roosevelt,” a very 
large flower of a delicate shade of pink, and a good laster when cut, 
“ Clifford W. Bruton,” a standard florist’s flower of a canary yellow 
color and “ Perle d’Or,” a pure white with long stiff stems. 
Of late years there has been a great improvement in the single 
dahlias, especially since the advent of the “20th Century” dahlia 
and its seedlings. These produce large, saucer shaped flowers, 
generally of pure self colors. One cannot go amiss in growing 
almost any of them. Among them is “ Harvard, ” color an intense 
glistening crimson, with long stems and an unusually good keeper; 
“Gorgeous,” a dazzling scarlet with occasionally a stripe of white 
down a petal; “Pink Century,” “Crimson Century,” and one 
called “The Record.” Among those producing smaller single 
flowers but equally as attractive are “Alba Superba” and “Anem¬ 
one,” both pure whites, “Black Bird,” a dark maroon and 
“Gaillardia,” almost a counterpart of the improved forms of 
Gaillardia austata. 
It is not advisable to plant dahlias in rich ground. It induces a 
tall, rank growth, a prey to the winds, and produces too large a 
percentage of foliage. Plant in ordinary ground, placing the 
crowns some six inches below the surface, over which put, say three 
inches of soil; early in the season hill up around the plant so as to 
leave a basin nearly two feet in diameter around each plant. 
This allows watering frequently without much trouble during 
dry seasons. 
When the plants show buds, water once a week with diluted ma¬ 
nure water. If you have no manure water at hand, collect the pure 
fresh droppings of the cow or horse, and place them in the basin 
all around the plant, and then water. One good filling of manure 
will last the season, some soot or finely powdered bone meal or 
dried blood, added to the manure will be beneficial. When the 
plant is forming its bloom buds is when it wants stimulants, if in 
ordinary soil it will have made its growth in height and be intent 
on flowering. Dahlias are at their best when the cool nights of 
early autumn come and some varieties, even if they flower before 
then reserve their best efforts for the autumn show. 
COLD FRAMES AND HOTBEDS 
What is the difference between a cold frame and a hotbed r 
J.W. D. 
A cold frame is for keeping semi-tender plants over winter and a 
hotbed is for raising seedlings in the spring. 
In the case of the former, the frame is sunken into the earth, or 
placed on the ground and earth ridged up against the sides, 
covered with a sash, over which is placed a wooden shutter, and 
in very cold climates straw or mats are placed over all. Every¬ 
thing is removed on bright warm days to air the contents. 
A hotbed is a frame set up the same way—but is made deeper 
and contains at the bottom heated manure, over which a few 
inches of soil is placed in which the seeds are started. Sash are 
used to cover it and on cold nights shutters or mats are added. 
BRILLIANT FOLIAGED SHRUBS 
At the end of our lawn, skirting a natural grove, is a clump of 
wych-hazel, handsome in season in its lemon colored foliage and 
flowers. I would like to plant some shrubs near them whose 
foliage turns a crimson or red. 1 do not like sumachs as they 
spread so. Can you suggest something ? A. S. P. 
The most brilliantly colored fall foliaged shrub is the Japanese 
Strawberry bush Euonymus alatus, a shrub attaining a height of 
six to eight feet. It is fibrous rooted, and easily transplanted. 
