The Planting and Care of Roses 
By JOHN W. HALL 
^f^HE gardener who has at command only limited 
space on which to grow roses is at once con¬ 
cerned as to how to get the best results in 
quantity and quality of blooms. 
It is of primary importance that the ground where 
rose bushes are to be set should be well prepared, 
spaded and carefully pulverized to a depth of from 
twelve to twenty inches, and mixed with well-rotted 
compost, to which has been added, while in the heap, 
a small quantity of air-slacked lime. Roses require 
a rich soil and if the ground is not naturally fertile, 
the quality lacking must be supplied. 
Rose bushes should not be set where the ground 
is low or the drainage bad, but if this cannot be 
avoided place a layer of broken brick, cinders or 
similar material at the bottom of the bed to act as a 
sub-drain. 
Having the ground in good condition set the rose 
bushes just as near as possible to the way they stood 
in the nursery; i.e., spread out the roots naturally and 
put the bush in the ground a depth sufficient to bring 
a dark line which will be shown on the stem, even 
with the surface. Fill in around the plant with fine 
soil, mixed with sand if convenient, and press it 
down firmly with the hand or foot; keep well wa¬ 
tered, and shade if the weather is warm or sunny. 
Budded and grafted bushes should be set so that the 
junction of stock and graft is two inches below the 
surface of the soil. Let the habit of growth of the 
rose determine the distance at which they are set. A 
distance of three feet is not too much for strong 
growers. 
Equally important with the preparation of the 
soil and the planting of the bushes is the care and 
cultivation of them. At the time of planting all 
roses should be cut back. If the bushes are already 
established they should be pruned during the first 
spring month. Cut out weak and decayed parts 
and such growth as crowds the plant and prevents 
light and air from having free access. 
A safe rule is to prune growing, delicate plants 
severely, and for strong plants shorten the branches 
but little, but thin them out well. Prune for shape¬ 
liness of plant and promotion of bloom buds. To 
cause hybrid perpetuals to bloom twice in summer, 
give them a second pruning after the first bloom 
in June. 
Stir the soil about the roots of the roses frequently, 
and do not plant annuals among them. To do their 
best, the plants should have all the nourishment the 
soil can furnish. Avoid an excessive blooming 
during the first year of the plant; rather let them 
take strength into the root and stem for the second 
season when results will be much more satisfac¬ 
tory. Vigilance is the price of healthy plants and 
fine blooms. In the autumn mulch heavily with 
manure and in the winter provide some protection by 
wrapping or covering; evergreen boughs make a 
good covering, and may be stacked about tall bushes 
which is better than bending them. During the 
summer make an application of a light straw manure. 
This will prevent tbe soil from drying out too rapidly, 
and at the same time the rains will wash its nutri¬ 
ment to the roots of the plants. 
By liberal fertilization and thorough cultivation 
the plants may be kept healthy and in good growing 
condition. Such roses are not likely to be attacked 
by insects, or if attacked not easily injured. If 
insects appear apply the proper remedies promptly 
and vigorously and keep the ground stirred about 
the bushes. As a rule a strong stream of water from 
a hose applied once a day will keep the roses free 
from insects. But if this is not effective, insecticides 
must be resorted to. 
The rose bug is at times very troublesome as well 
as destructive to the buds. It can be effectively 
disposed of by a kerosene emulsion made and applied 
as follows: Shave up one fourth pound of hard 
laundry soap and dissolve in two quarts of boiling 
water; add one pint of kerosene oil and stir briskly 
for four or five minutes, until thoroughly mixed. 
Dilute to twice its bulk with water and sprinkle it on 
the bushes with a spraying syringe or a whisk broom. 
Repeat as often as required to keep the plants clear 
of the bugs. 
About the time the leaves are fairly well developed, 
there usually appears the rose caterpillar. It glues 
the leaves together to form a shelter and its 
presence cannot be mistaken. The only effective 
remedy is to go over the bushes and remove and 
destroy the leaves inhabited, thereby destroying the 
pests. 
Saw-fly larva, and other insects appear at a later 
season than do caterpillars, unless prevented by an 
occasional spraying. If they should, however, make 
their appearance destroy and dispose of them by 
sprinkling the plants lavishly with powdered white 
hellebore. It is well to moisten the bushes before 
applying the hellebore as the moisture will cause it 
to stick to the foliage. 
Mildew on the plants is best cured by an applica¬ 
tion of sulphur or soot. As with the application of 
hellebore, the bushes should be first sprinkled. 
The observance of these suggestions will in prac¬ 
tically every instance insure healthy plants and 
blooms of the greatest perfection. 
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